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#1 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 70
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The day i got my speakers i set them up to see if they work then i made the mistake of turning them off from the sub and the fuse blew..(common problem) iv replaced it with a glass fuse and has been working fine..but im scared when i turn them off from the main power switch (not the pod) will it blow again and what difference will it make if its a glass fuse?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 423
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It's common. The supplied fuse is about 2 or 2.5 amps, and it's not enough - the system draws more than that when you switch it on. Change it for a 3.15 amp fuse - been working fine for 3 months now, switched on and off every day.
A fuse is a fuse as far as I'm concerned, I've no idea what you mean by a 'glass' fuse, but whatever it is it's not gonna make a difference
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2006 Mac Pro Dual, dual core xeons @ 2.0Ghz each 2Gb Ram (I'm too poor) NVidia Geforce 7300Gt 256mb Onboard Sound - optical out to Logitech Z5500 Digidesign MBox2 output to PMCs 250Gb Drive running both Mac OSX and Windows on seperate partitions, 400Gb Seagate Drive for Windows, 400Gb WD Drive for OSX 24¨ Acer AL2416W (not nearly as bad as you'd think) Various Lacie external drives |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Netherlands
Age: 21
Posts: 7,834
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ceramic fuses and glass fuses pretty much work the same way. (the might be a difference in their speed, but I dont think that'll matter much on a speaker system)
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#5 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 423
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I honestly can't think why there would be a difference, it's a bit of wire that does the work.
I meant to say slow blow/time-delay as well. 3.15amp. If you do the maths (and I can't remember the equasions) but taking its rms value of 505watts, a 2amp fuse covers 501watts I think it was. The peak power it can draw however is 1000watts, so I'm thinking surely that 2amp isn't enough. You could use a 1000amp fuse and the speakers would be fine. The only reason you have a fuse is for when there's a surge in the mains supply, and surges just don't happen these days, or happen very very rarely. 3.15A seems to be spot on, it's completely safe. Also, the decoder is known to be quite fragile, so you don't want a fuse blowing on it and give it a jolt all the time.
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2006 Mac Pro Dual, dual core xeons @ 2.0Ghz each 2Gb Ram (I'm too poor) NVidia Geforce 7300Gt 256mb Onboard Sound - optical out to Logitech Z5500 Digidesign MBox2 output to PMCs 250Gb Drive running both Mac OSX and Windows on seperate partitions, 400Gb Seagate Drive for Windows, 400Gb WD Drive for OSX 24¨ Acer AL2416W (not nearly as bad as you'd think) Various Lacie external drives |
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