Rc

MBGraphics · 06-27-2008, 07:53 AM

Spare parts would be more like A-Arms, since those break the most. Also the Ball cups and tie-rods. and of course tires :p

You know, now that I think about it. I have a couple cars an stuff that im going to be putting on e-bay somtime this summer. I could talk to my dad an see what kind of deal we could work out. It's used, but like I said, I was a highly competitive racer, so everything is in near tip-top shape.

**Archangel** · 06-27-2008, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBGraphics

I was a highly competitive racer, so everything is in near tip-top shape.

well, you could look at it another way... usually with racing the cars are pushed to the max, causing them to wear out pretty fast. (I'm not saying thats the cause here, but a laod of people will look at it this way

) and most people dont bother getting new parts just before they sell it then.

g25racer · 06-27-2008, 09:50 AM

Go for electric as your first. Nitro takes alot more experience and money.

g25racer · 06-27-2008, 09:53 AM

If you want a basher electric truck go for an e-maxx or stampede. If you want something fast but an electric then go for something that is brushless. Plus brushless are less maitenence.

**Archangel** · 06-27-2008, 09:56 AM

nitro's dont take a lot more money, nor experience. (sides, experience can easely be gainen trough online forums etc

) they do take a lot more effort to keep running tough. (as in, keep the air filter clean and oiled. for example) ofcourse you have to adjust the engine all the time! and ofcourse the whole chassis will get greasy of the oil, so you'll have to clean it a bit more often too than an electro car

however, take the Traxxas Revo 3.3 for example. it originally comes with a nitro engine, however, you can get a Brushless conversion kit for it. (with 2 fans on the heatsink on the motor, and 1 fan on the speed controller!

) wich makes it accelerate faster, higher top speed and more torque in the lower revs. wich is certainly not advisable for someone who jsut starts ^.^ (but you,.. you're talking about a load of money in rc parts then ofc

)

with a 200 dollar budget, I wouldnt advice brushless anyways... simply because even if you could get it for that price, you'd have rubbish quality (so basicly still wasted the money)
I wouldnt go completely nuts jsut yet when it comes to speed either (as a starter) you have to get used to the controls, and above all, be able to anticipate what the car will do. also you need to get the reflexes right before you go really fast. for example, when you are on a collision route with something (and you have a pistol-style transmitter) you have to use the brakes. (when it comes inexcpected ofc) the reflex should be to push the throttle lever away so the car will brake. this isnt exacly a natural response (since you dont use that with anything else!) so its better to not go all out straight away, of you'll end up with broken parts

g25racer · 06-27-2008, 09:59 AM

^^ Ahh I had a Revo 3.3 and they are not that great. They simply suck for bashing. So, Nitro's dont take more money or experience? Yeah thats some bull crap. If someone cant get an electric to run right then how would they get a nitro to run? LOL What about the expense of nitro-methane, huh? Yeah $25 a gallon

**Archangel** · 06-27-2008, 10:07 AM

what about the expense of batteries? with the ammount of apere you get the energy out of a battery with a decent electro motor, the batteries will hold for about 50 charges (then they have maybe 60% of their capacity left)
you might wanna get your facts straight before declaring what I say as bullshit.

Nitromethanol isnt too bad, it just takes a bit more patience than electro. (wich most starters dont have) Sides that,.. buying everything expnsive isnt hard,.. finding it cheap is. I bought 5 Liter (16%) Tornado Nitromethanol for 17 euro's (usually is costs about 10 euro per liter here) its just something you gotta keep in mind.

sides that,.. the Revo is a racing truggy,.. its not really ment for bashing...

what I got over here at the moment in terms of RC stuff:
Tamiya M-03 (longer shocks, Alu skidplate and some other mods in the drivetrain to make it a rally car

)
Lauterbacher L3 Competition (1/5 scaled 23cc Carbon/Alu Racing Car)
HPI Nitro RS4 2 (4wd onroad chassis, belt driven. originally with a 2.11cc, putted a 2.5cc engine in it tough)
HPI Nitro MT (the chassis is very simmilair to the HPI Nitro RS4 3evo, but a monstertruck version of it)
Mini-Z AWD Audi TT (speaks for itself I suppose)
Team Losi Micro-T (its getting close to full alu etc, but I gues you've seen the pics in the recently bought items thread ^.^)
Yu'Can Jumbo (one of my favorite cars... its about 30 years old now. I put a new 3.5cc engine in it, currently still working on it to get it up and running again

its a rear wheel drive buggy )

so yea, I've done my fair share of homework on this topic so far

g25racer · 06-27-2008, 10:18 AM

50 charges? Wow you get crappy batteries then

**Archangel** · 06-27-2008, 10:24 AM

actually,.. sanyo cells. but if you pull 70amps constant, with 90amps peak out of a battery,.. well lets say, they dont like that very much.

look it up in the warranties of Graupner for example. they only give 6 months warranty on batteries because of that.

edit: ofcourse, if you use a motor with less power, the batteries will last longer. but still, they wear a lot faster than say the batteries in a wireless mouse or so.

g25racer · 06-28-2008, 02:31 AM

^^ True. I use to be big into rc but, it got too expensive for me b/c I liked bashing too much. My Revo 3.3 only lasted me about 4months. That was the last r/c I owned. But I was younger so thats why I liked bashing so much. Oh well. Over the like 2-3years that I was into it I had:

- (2) Electric Stampede's (one with 15turn motor)
- (2) Nitro Rustler's 2.5's
- Nitro 4-tec 2.5
- Electric Bandit
- Tamiya Ferrari Enzo
- (2) Mini-t's
- Team Associated TC3 Electric
- Revo 3.3
- And a couple of Tamiya Froggers (vintage)

If I were to get another R/c I would get either an E-maxx and go dual brushless setup or get a Revo again and drop in a Brushless setup along with some RPM stuff. LOL

06-27-2008, 07:53 AM	#21 (permalink)
MBGraphics Platinum Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Garden Grove CA Age: 17 Posts: 628	Spare parts would be more like A-Arms, since those break the most. Also the Ball cups and tie-rods. and of course tires :p You know, now that I think about it. I have a couple cars an stuff that im going to be putting on e-bay somtime this summer. I could talk to my dad an see what kind of deal we could work out. It's used, but like I said, I was a highly competitive racer, so everything is in near tip-top shape. __________________ Mike Case:Dell Dimention 8400 2 19" standard flat pannel monitors CPU: Pentium 4 630 (3GHz) w/HT technology and 2MB cache GPU: ATI Radeon X300SE RAM/Storage:3GB/250GB internal and 320GB External Sound Card: Sound Blaster Audigy OS: Windows XP Media Center Eddition (2005) My Flickr site The SIG My SmugMug

06-27-2008, 09:50 AM	#23 (permalink)
g25racer Diamond Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Posts: 3,852	Go for electric as your first. Nitro takes alot more experience and money. __________________ CPU - AMD Athlon 64x2 5200+ @ 2.6ghz Ram - 2GB Stock clock HD - 320gb seagate & Samsung 750gb 32mb cache GPU - XFX 8600GT XXX Zalman @ 680 or 700mhz PSU - Ultra X-finity 600watt OS - Vista Home Premium(32) & Ubuntu (8.04) Ultimate Ed Audio - JVC 460watts Control - Logitech G25 Wheel & Logitech Rumblepad 2 Games - GTR2 and LFS -- Race Sim's for Life --

06-27-2008, 09:53 AM	#24 (permalink)
g25racer Diamond Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Posts: 3,852	If you want a basher electric truck go for an e-maxx or stampede. If you want something fast but an electric then go for something that is brushless. Plus brushless are less maitenence. __________________ CPU - AMD Athlon 64x2 5200+ @ 2.6ghz Ram - 2GB Stock clock HD - 320gb seagate & Samsung 750gb 32mb cache GPU - XFX 8600GT XXX Zalman @ 680 or 700mhz PSU - Ultra X-finity 600watt OS - Vista Home Premium(32) & Ubuntu (8.04) Ultimate Ed Audio - JVC 460watts Control - Logitech G25 Wheel & Logitech Rumblepad 2 Games - GTR2 and LFS -- Race Sim's for Life --

06-27-2008, 09:56 AM	#25 (permalink)
Archangel Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Netherlands Age: 21 Posts: 8,103	nitro's dont take a lot more money, nor experience. (sides, experience can easely be gainen trough online forums etc ) they do take a lot more effort to keep running tough. (as in, keep the air filter clean and oiled. for example) ofcourse you have to adjust the engine all the time! and ofcourse the whole chassis will get greasy of the oil, so you'll have to clean it a bit more often too than an electro car however, take the Traxxas Revo 3.3 for example. it originally comes with a nitro engine, however, you can get a Brushless conversion kit for it. (with 2 fans on the heatsink on the motor, and 1 fan on the speed controller! ) wich makes it accelerate faster, higher top speed and more torque in the lower revs. wich is certainly not advisable for someone who jsut starts ^.^ (but you,.. you're talking about a load of money in rc parts then ofc ) with a 200 dollar budget, I wouldnt advice brushless anyways... simply because even if you could get it for that price, you'd have rubbish quality (so basicly still wasted the money) I wouldnt go completely nuts jsut yet when it comes to speed either (as a starter) you have to get used to the controls, and above all, be able to anticipate what the car will do. also you need to get the reflexes right before you go really fast. for example, when you are on a collision route with something (and you have a pistol-style transmitter) you have to use the brakes. (when it comes inexcpected ofc) the reflex should be to push the throttle lever away so the car will brake. this isnt exacly a natural response (since you dont use that with anything else!) so its better to not go all out straight away, of you'll end up with broken parts __________________ Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, I don't feel very well either Xfire - Mirrari Intel Q6600 ( @3.6GHz) Asus Triton 79 Amazing 549/3200 4x 1Gb Corsair XMS2 DDR800 Asus Maximus Formula Asus & Sapphire HD3870 512Mb ( 850/1180 ) Corsair HX620W PSU Last edited by Archangel; 06-27-2008 at 10:01 AM.

06-27-2008, 09:59 AM	#26 (permalink)
g25racer Diamond Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Posts: 3,852	^^ Ahh I had a Revo 3.3 and they are not that great. They simply suck for bashing. So, Nitro's dont take more money or experience? Yeah thats some bull crap. If someone cant get an electric to run right then how would they get a nitro to run? LOL What about the expense of nitro-methane, huh? Yeah $25 a gallon __________________ CPU - AMD Athlon 64x2 5200+ @ 2.6ghz Ram - 2GB Stock clock HD - 320gb seagate & Samsung 750gb 32mb cache GPU - XFX 8600GT XXX Zalman @ 680 or 700mhz PSU - Ultra X-finity 600watt OS - Vista Home Premium(32) & Ubuntu (8.04) Ultimate Ed Audio - JVC 460watts Control - Logitech G25 Wheel & Logitech Rumblepad 2 Games - GTR2 and LFS -- Race Sim's for Life --

06-27-2008, 10:07 AM	#27 (permalink)
Archangel Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Netherlands Age: 21 Posts: 8,103	what about the expense of batteries? with the ammount of apere you get the energy out of a battery with a decent electro motor, the batteries will hold for about 50 charges (then they have maybe 60% of their capacity left) you might wanna get your facts straight before declaring what I say as bullshit. Nitromethanol isnt too bad, it just takes a bit more patience than electro. (wich most starters dont have) Sides that,.. buying everything expnsive isnt hard,.. finding it cheap is. I bought 5 Liter (16%) Tornado Nitromethanol for 17 euro's (usually is costs about 10 euro per liter here) its just something you gotta keep in mind. sides that,.. the Revo is a racing truggy,.. its not really ment for bashing... what I got over here at the moment in terms of RC stuff: Tamiya M-03 (longer shocks, Alu skidplate and some other mods in the drivetrain to make it a rally car ) Lauterbacher L3 Competition (1/5 scaled 23cc Carbon/Alu Racing Car) HPI Nitro RS4 2 (4wd onroad chassis, belt driven. originally with a 2.11cc, putted a 2.5cc engine in it tough) HPI Nitro MT (the chassis is very simmilair to the HPI Nitro RS4 3evo, but a monstertruck version of it) Mini-Z AWD Audi TT (speaks for itself I suppose) Team Losi Micro-T (its getting close to full alu etc, but I gues you've seen the pics in the recently bought items thread ^.^) Yu'Can Jumbo (one of my favorite cars... its about 30 years old now. I put a new 3.5cc engine in it, currently still working on it to get it up and running again its a rear wheel drive buggy ) so yea, I've done my fair share of homework on this topic so far __________________ Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, I don't feel very well either Xfire - Mirrari Intel Q6600 ( @3.6GHz) Asus Triton 79 Amazing 549/3200 4x 1Gb Corsair XMS2 DDR800 Asus Maximus Formula Asus & Sapphire HD3870 512Mb ( 850/1180 ) Corsair HX620W PSU Last edited by Archangel; 06-27-2008 at 10:14 AM.

06-27-2008, 10:18 AM	#28 (permalink)
g25racer Diamond Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Posts: 3,852	50 charges? Wow you get crappy batteries then __________________ CPU - AMD Athlon 64x2 5200+ @ 2.6ghz Ram - 2GB Stock clock HD - 320gb seagate & Samsung 750gb 32mb cache GPU - XFX 8600GT XXX Zalman @ 680 or 700mhz PSU - Ultra X-finity 600watt OS - Vista Home Premium(32) & Ubuntu (8.04) Ultimate Ed Audio - JVC 460watts Control - Logitech G25 Wheel & Logitech Rumblepad 2 Games - GTR2 and LFS -- Race Sim's for Life --

06-27-2008, 10:24 AM	#29 (permalink)
Archangel Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Netherlands Age: 21 Posts: 8,103	actually,.. sanyo cells. but if you pull 70amps constant, with 90amps peak out of a battery,.. well lets say, they dont like that very much. look it up in the warranties of Graupner for example. they only give 6 months warranty on batteries because of that. edit: ofcourse, if you use a motor with less power, the batteries will last longer. but still, they wear a lot faster than say the batteries in a wireless mouse or so. __________________ Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, I don't feel very well either Xfire - Mirrari Intel Q6600 ( @3.6GHz) Asus Triton 79 Amazing 549/3200 4x 1Gb Corsair XMS2 DDR800 Asus Maximus Formula Asus & Sapphire HD3870 512Mb ( 850/1180 ) Corsair HX620W PSU Last edited by Archangel; 06-27-2008 at 10:32 AM.

06-28-2008, 02:31 AM	#30 (permalink)
g25racer Diamond Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Posts: 3,852	^^ True. I use to be big into rc but, it got too expensive for me b/c I liked bashing too much. My Revo 3.3 only lasted me about 4months. That was the last r/c I owned. But I was younger so thats why I liked bashing so much. Oh well. Over the like 2-3years that I was into it I had: - (2) Electric Stampede's (one with 15turn motor) - (2) Nitro Rustler's 2.5's - Nitro 4-tec 2.5 - Electric Bandit - Tamiya Ferrari Enzo - (2) Mini-t's - Team Associated TC3 Electric - Revo 3.3 - And a couple of Tamiya Froggers (vintage) If I were to get another R/c I would get either an E-maxx and go dual brushless setup or get a Revo again and drop in a Brushless setup along with some RPM stuff. LOL __________________ CPU - AMD Athlon 64x2 5200+ @ 2.6ghz Ram - 2GB Stock clock HD - 320gb seagate & Samsung 750gb 32mb cache GPU - XFX 8600GT XXX Zalman @ 680 or 700mhz PSU - Ultra X-finity 600watt OS - Vista Home Premium(32) & Ubuntu (8.04) Ultimate Ed Audio - JVC 460watts Control - Logitech G25 Wheel & Logitech Rumblepad 2 Games - GTR2 and LFS -- Race Sim's for Life --

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