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It's better to get a good pair of wired headphones (an example is the AKG K7xx) for computer use and if you need something for portable/on the go, maybe something like the Jaybirds X3.

Here is what I was talking about:

From the article you linked: "Above, a chart of relative power consumption. Again the Wattage shown is the card with the GPU(s) stressed 100%, showing only the peak GPU power draw, not the power consumption of the entire PC and not the average gaming power consumption." The 2 cards by...

Nope, just correcting false information. I'd like it be public so others know.

Please do your research.... 800w load on a 860w PSU is only 92% efficient : Corsair AX860i While with the 1200W that I have with an 800w load is almost 93% efficient: Corsair AX1200i Also I don't think you ever have taken any electrical classes as nothing is most efficient under full...

And that gives you the right to be hostile.... you must be an awesome person in life to talk to... I want to make a worklog thread and want it to be unknown until I do. I will say that the computer will have 2 480's, 1 360 and 1 280 rad in the case. Again you make claims without having any...

I'm not sure what I did to you but your hostility is uncalled for. You don't know what I have planned for my upcoming build yet you call me an idiot... Also I'm not sure why you are so adamant about an extra $50 or $100 spent on a PSU. It's just a tiny fraction of the cost of the total...

There are only 3 PSU's that Corsair makes that have the Link system integrated. A 760w, 860w and a 1200w. 760w/860w will not meet my future needs so I purchased a 1200w. I think you should do more research before calling someone an idiot because it just makes you look like one. "Jamebonds PC...

In what way? Esata needs power and can be a hassle.

lol mine looks much better then this. For what it is, it's decently compact in size. The drive can be a normal sata 2.5" drive. No esata needed. The connection to the computer is ThunderBolt. I use it with my MBPr as a Windows Bootcamp partition when I need to. The life of the drive will be the...

USB 3.0 is 5gb/s a second so if you could find a proper controller you might be able to take advantage of the speed that way. I personally have a Seagate TB Go Flex adpater and use a 256gb Vertex 4 with it. I get 420mb/s instead of the 300 something this guys getting : Article Mine is like...

I say if you can afford it, go for it. Obviously it would be dumb to go throw a 1200w/1000w PSU in there but I think everything else is pretty fair game.

Why? There is maybe a $20 difference between a 650 to a 750.

There is no such thing as an overkill PSU.

I agree. The 17-50mm will be much more useful. It will be like 28mm to 80mm on a crop sensor like the T3i.

Sounds like the SSD went. It's funny with them as they will die all of a sudden compared to a platter drive where you start noticing performance issues first before it dies. Unfortunately just the nature of SSD's.

Claptoman, I had to do a double take when I saw your pics because I saw them earlier on Reddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/CableManagement/comments/1gv8zg/my_puppyproof_desksetup/

Now is a good time. The new Nvdia cards have come out and it has driven the price of most of the other cards down. Just like Spirit said though, there is never really a perfect time to buy. Whatever you get now will be old in 6 months so get as much and you can afford and dont look back.

Came to suggest this as well. If you dont have AC go with the 56U. I have that myself and it has been a very good router. My network buddy has about 5 of them with custom firmware and swears by them. (for home/small businesses)

For laptops, prebuilt is the way to go. The issue with building your own is that something as tight and compact as a laptop needs to have a cooling solution capable of cooling all the parts. It's not easy to make a cooling solution that covers everything. A laptop needs to be designed with all...