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My hypothesis is that the BIOS once contained settings which are no longer applicable to the Windows installation and now the absence of the expected features prevents Windows from loading. I suspected therefore, that a new installation of Windows is your best chance.

:D I think I could also have unplugged the power to the motherboard and shorted the green wire to a ground wire to switch on the PSU but this was the laziest way :) Who's been sucking you? :(

I just finished building my new PC but since the RAID will be destroyed in transfer, I had to plug the drives into the old computer in order to backup the data. I already had everything set up in the new case and didn't fancy taking the drives out, plus my old PSU did not have enough SATA power...

I figure, if the disk spins at a constant rate, there are more bits of data passing the heads at the outskirts of the disk than at the centre, thus it would be optimal, in terms of read/write speed, to place the operating system partition in this portion of the disk, right? Are the cylinders...

I guess that the socket is more easily replaced? Or is it not replaceable at all? Otherwise, I don't see the advantage to taking them off the CPU...

I read that Intel is no longer putting pins on their new models of processors; is that right? AMD will still be doing it for AM2/AM3 though. I hope AMD realise that pins are OUT! I just spent half an hour fixing the bent pins on my old Athlon 3200+. I slid a sewing needle between the rows...

Okay, thanks :)

My case has an eSATA port whose cable (which plugs into the motherboard) looks like a regular SATA cable. Can it be plugged into one of the normal SATA ports on the MB or does it require a special eSATA port?

I think I read somewhere that a future version of Photoshop was intended to harness the power of certain GPUs for image-editing purposes but I don't know how reliable that information is, nor how far into the future (or whether it's already here), nor which GPUs. :)

You were actively looking for Facebook quizzes...?

Okay, thanks to everyone who made this possible! :D Final system specification: Mainboard: GA 790FXTA-UD5 CPU: AMD Phenom II 965 X4 RAM: OCZ Black Ed Ready Dual Channel 2x2GB DDR3-1600 Graphics: Sapphire HD 5770 1GB GDDR5 PSU: Thermaltake 705w 700W (already owned) Case: Fractal Define R2

Does that apply to both systems? Do either beep a number of times while booting? You should probably create separate threads for each system, so this doesn't get confusing.

Okay, so I want a 5770 with 1GB DDR5 but how do I decide between them? If I get this GIGABYTE card, perhaps it will combine with the motherboard Transformers style to produce an awesome gaming experience?

Okay, thanks guys. After considering all the options presented, I think it's gonna be the GIGABYTE GA 790FXTA-UD5 because it has three PCI-E at x16 and a couple of needles USB 3.0 ports and SATA III support. If I want to employ all four RAM slots in the GA 790FXTA-UD5, am I correct in my...

I'm guessing that the finalisation option only appears when you're actually about to burn a disc, so go through motions of burning a disc and look for it then. Consider DVD-RW which can be re-written to. You could have three or more sets which you cycle through. Windows 98 in 2010?? I guess it...

If it was me, I'd go for a second-hand CRT and use the money saved for something else, but that's not practical for everyone. My last CRT was a Philips which I'd owned for 6 years from new and I had to leave it behind when I emmigrated. That thing had surived a brick landing on it through a...

In my opinion, you don't need a new DVD burner. Use that money on your other components. Your HDD will work but as has been said, it's going to be a bit slow compared to a SATA II 3Gbit/s. The graphics card should be PCI-E, otherwise it's not worth buying a new motherboard for and you should...

I am hoping to build myself a new PC, capable of running current games, not fantastically, but at least better than the hardware that I'm currently using. I'm a student and don't want to expend money by buying excessively powerful components. I will start off with one graphics card and in a...

I was told that it was the switching on and off of the drive that causes the damage. I suggest buying a new drive and backing up your data if possible. How old is the drive? You can download a free tool to examine the SMART data but I'm not sure what the program is called.

I already reformatted the drive and put music on it. There's no data on there that I can't afford to lose. My question is whether or not I can continue to use the drive (to play music from) without a threat to the integrity of the other drives or Windows stability.