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You're both quoting comments I directed at the OP who clearly stated: Thus the references to a home router, which is what I'm suspecting he's using. As to my comments regarding transfers over ethernet being slower, that can be easily proved and I've done it here about a thousand times. The...

Your comment: "how does a piece of solid state hardware get old and slow down?" sounded pretty generic to me. As for the reader, it's likely just a slower device from day 1 regardless of the interface type.

Believe whatever you want. I move several TB of data every single day doing data recovery and working with full hard drives of data. I've tried going the network route even using high end routers, etc. to assist with centralizing data that we need to work on with multiple systems and it's...

Yeah, but if you directly USB or SATA connect it and copy the same set of small files it'll move the data twice as fast as it will over the network. My point in posting was to point out to the OP that if speed is what he's going for then his entire approach is wrong. Not to debate the...

Sure, if you're transferring just a single big file over a good router you'll get that. Try transferring a lot of little files through a home router (like I suspect the OP is) and see what type of speed you get.

I guess it's really more related to latency than overhead per se. The time it takes to request a file or block of data, transfer it, confirm the transfer, and then request the next block takes much longer than a direct USB or SATA connection. USB actually is much slower than SATA in this...

Keep this in mind, network speeds are rated in GigaBits not GigaBytes so whatever you think you network speed is, you'll need to divide by 8 then account for overhead. So a 1 GiB ethernet connection is theoretically around 125Mb/s, but in reality is usually more like 50-60Mb/s after overhead...

Actually NAND flash memory is very unreliable and not only slows down but breaks down as it ages. A 32GB NAND is actually more like 48GB in reality to accommodate all the XOR and wear leveling patterns necessary to just ensure you don't lose data as parts of the NAND wears out during normal...

Can I ask what exactly you're trying to accomplish here? If your trying to recover data then you're going about it all wrong. If you don't need data, then the only thing you should be doing with a drive in that condition is to throw it away.

A pending sector is one that's suspected to be bad because it took too long to read. During idle times the HDD itself will try to read the sector and possibly mark it as good if it was just a one time fluke reading it. Or, if it's still slow reading it'll re-map it to another good sector along...

Umm, both of these statements are 100% false. Out of nearly 1000 cases of clicking My Passport recoveries we've handled, exactly 1 was a PCB issue and it shocked everyone to discover that. Also, WD My Passports since the 500Gb range have all had onboard encryption. The OP is inquiring...

If the drive is clicking, then just replacing the PCB or adapting it to be SATA won't help anyway. And the problem they don't tell you about in that Salvation Data blog is that if you bypass the SATA bridge chip via removing the resistors and soldering in, or by replacing the PCB with a SATA...

My advice would be to just put it aside somewhere safe for a while, just in case you later realize there was something on there you can't re-create or can't live without. You'd probably be looking at a recovery somewhere around $900-1000 in total for a pro to do it. I know our price for a 3Tb...

@OP, if the drive is clicking as you say then you'll need pro recovery. The drives read/write heads have failed, and nothing you're going to DIY is going to help even a little bit. In fact anything and everything you try, even just plugging it in, is dropping the chances that you'll ever get...

That link is for the My Cloud not the My Passport. It's not going to have a SATA port, trust me I work on these drives full time. No My Passport drive has had a native SATA port since the days of around 320Gb. His is a 3TB. They have never put a SATA HDD in a 3Tb My Passport. It'll look...

If you're curious as to where to put it back this picture can help: That one was from a really destroyed hard drive where the surface was scratched off. The red arrows show where it goes in the drive. However given that you've opened the drive, and I assume not in a proper HEPA clean room...

I wouldn't even bother to remove it from the case. Unless it's a really old My Passport, the USB bridge is built right into the drive. So there's no regular SATA connection to be found. It is possible to replace the PCB with a SATA one along with transferring the U12 chip. If you provide me...

With all tech there is a minimum cost of raw materials as already pointed out. The raw materials is nearly the same for any flash drive regardless of the capacity. The only reason high capacity ones cost more is to pay for the research, development, and new equipment required to make the new...

Running chkdsk will err on the side of simply removing entire entries from the file tables, effectively making it impossible later to properly put back together the file name and folder structure. It might just be a useless windows update folder, or it could be your entire users folder, and...

Absolutely NOT!!! Chkdsk is the very last thing you should ever do in a data loss situation. It's only function is to repair the file system to a "functioning" state, with absolutely no regard for data. I've seen dozens of cases where chkdsk made data recovery impossible. Do not run it!!!