Sound Blaster X-Fi Mods -will void your warranty-

You do realize that you can't do that to your Xtreme Audio seeing that it's, hardware wise, not a real x-fi right?
 
Yup, the xtreme audio is just an audigy 2 with software features. I may do this to my xfi fatal1ty though.
Edit: have four of the LM4562MA's with SOIC pinout on the way. Now to find some caps.
Edit 2: Removed and shorted the decoupling caps, sound quality is noticeably a bit better.
Edit 3: Found a place that sells 1000uf Blackgate capacitors....$25 USD minimum order though and $8 shipping....and the caps are only $4.75 each.
 
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diduknowthat said:
I have one sitting in my drawer (got replaced by Xonar D1), wana buy it? :D
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Supposedly modded these beat some higher end studio cards...cant wait for my OpAmps to come to try it out. Now, to find a supplier of black gate caps, else i'll just use rubycon and panasonic ones.

So far though...removing and shorting the decoupling caps has really helped noticeably improve analog sound quality, and thats with the stock opamps.
 
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Aha! So you are trying it! :D

I might look into that x-fi diduknowthat, what model is it in particular?
 
bomberboysk said:
So far though...removing and shorting the decoupling caps has really helped noticeably improve analog sound quality, and thats with the stock opamps.
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Sorry to be a nub,why do they put those "decoupling caps" on if theyre not needed and actualy reduce sound quality with them installed? :confused: :P
 
right now I'm on my palm pre so I cannot give a long explanation, mostly to help protect removal and insertion of stuff into the output jacks, and may cause a harmonic oscillation if you insert or remove jacks into a live card. The front audio bay for headphones would not be affected, nor would people like me who leave speakers attached to the card all the time, and for headphones only use the front xfi bay or headphone out on speakers.

the main problem with the xfi is it uses cheap jamicon caps, which are pitiful for computer use, let alone audio use. I'll be recapping my entire card eventually with panasonic/tantalum/rubycon caps, and replace the main cap with a black gate if I can find one.
 
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I hear blackgates are extremely hard to find nowadays... I hear you can also use konichicon (not sure on spelling) DG caps or something?
 
linkin said:
I hear blackgates are extremely hard to find nowadays... I hear you can also use konichicon (not sure on spelling) DG caps or something?
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Eh, i know a few places with rubycon black gates, problem is that they stopped making them back in 06 and the only places with them have $25 minimum order. If i cant find black gates cheap ill just use standard rubycons.

Anyhow, this is what i did with my decoupling caps: (Its clickable for high res)


The decoupling caps alone are a mod i would definately recommend doing, now for the OpAmps to come and see what sorta difference we can make.(FYI, from the research ive done, without shorting the decoupling caps the affect of the OpAmps is severely limited)
 
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Well i'll ask you about it again later, after i sell some of my junk and after my 4850 gets back from RMA (just got an email saying they shipped it via fedex :good:)
 
[-0MEGA-];1466418 said:
I love the first line of the thread.
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Haha i wonder how many people killed their card for them to put that there.

Anyhow, i finished mine, can definately tell an increase in SQ. I'll get pics in a bit.

Pic of installed OpAmps:


And size reference(old ones but same size as new ones which is why they are missing some pins cause i had to cut them off):


Definately not a mod to do if you are a soldering novice. Took me around ~10min total between removing the OpAmps, finding the OpAmp that i dropped, and soldering new ones on. I'll let the OpAmps burn in some more and then report back with another update. So far though i'm pretty impressed. Another mod that i did was resolder the back panel connectors on the card, using desoldering wick to remove the RoHS solder and replace it with silver solder(which is like 40% silver, and better electrical conductor than regular ROHS solder).

The biggest downfall of the stock card is that it doesnt even use symmetrical Operational Amplifiers, the stereo channel is a 4556 while surrounds are 4558's(cheaper/lower quality than the 4556).

I already have a guy i know looking at having me recap his card for him with nichicons and replace the OpAmps(he has an X-fi titanium and the decoupling caps are different pattern so wouldnt know which ones to short).
 
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After doing some checking on national's website, these seem to be a great alternative to the LM4562's, almost identical specs but a newer and slightly better operational amplifier, and a bit higher maximum tolerable voltage:
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LME49860.html#Overview

Have a set on the way for my card, even though i JUST put LM4562's on it haha.
 
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How you going with the mods bomber? If i had a proper x-fi i'd be doing it also.

Maybe i can pick up a dead one on ebay, try to fix it and then mod it :D
 
linkin said:
How you going with the mods bomber? If i had a proper x-fi i'd be doing it also.

Maybe i can pick up a dead one on ebay, try to fix it and then mod it :D
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my card turned out great with the mods, but i wouldnt recommend doing the mod unless you have a decent set of speakers to back it up with. So far i'm gonna be modding one for a buddy in indiana here soon(and a total recap of it as well).


Also, how good are you with soldering? The leads are about the size of 0.7mm pencil lead, pretty fine stuff(good idea to have a set of loupes to check the joints).
 
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