yamaha cdrw 8824e HELP!!!!!

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bh70116

New Member
hi,
i have a yamaha 8824e cdrw and i have windows 98se. i am having a problem with the rw drive it isnt reading cds the light stays red and it says the drive is not ready. i have tried to update driver, i have deleted it, i have tried to get support from yamaha to no avail. at this point i am ready to throw it in the pool!!!! any help would be great.
thanks
 
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PC eye

banned
If the drive is still good you may have to change the jumper setting. If it is at factory default(CS - cable select) you may have to reset that to master/slave depending on which cable it is on (middle connector with hdrive - end or middle connector secondary cable) as well as position. If the drive's card has a fault only then try tossing it. Try it with a different jumper setting and/or cable to see if that's the problem before doing that.
 
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PC eye

banned
OK! But you will have to at least take a side panel off of the case to gain access and have a small pair of tweezers or fine tipped pliers to "lightly" pull the plastic cap(what a jumper usually looks like. some look like a pair of wires) out far enough to move from one pair of small pins over to the intended pair. It's a nuisance at times but not difficult when going back and forth. A small flashlight like a pocket light and even a pocket magnifying glass can also be useful at times to make the jumper is placed in correct and not forced in.

First look at the small marking in the drive's casing to see what position is marked for what pair of pins(CS or even CA=cable select factory default in most cases - MA=master - SL=slave). Once you know the positions you simply move the jumper(some wiring inside) over from cable select if still there from being shipped to the master or slave position depending on the cable's position. If on the primary slaved to the hard drive that would be the middle connector with the jumper on the SL(slave) position with the hard drive as the master. If on the end of the secondary cable(second cable in case) you would then place the jumper on the MA(master) position.

In some cases the CL or CS cable select position is what will actually work when two drives share the same cable. Generally another drive like dvd rom or cd/dvd writer will force master/slave settings. That is common on the secondary more then the primary however. A last thought to consider would be how the cable itself is plugged in. If the locking tab at the center of the connector was missing from a bad molding or damage you may have reversed the connection causing the problems you are seeing. Or the cable is no longer any good from wear. The last thought is the drive's controller is goofed! That would mean returning the drive for replacement/refund to the vendor if this was still seen when connected to a different cable to check that out. Three things here to consider as the cause. (1) moving jumper from cable select to master or slave position (2) ribbon cable or power connection somehow reversed (3) bad controller card on drive. That drive light being on does point at something more then moving a jumper though. But the idea to try to see if the drive is good not defective was a thought here.
 
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PC eye

banned
Depending on the type and style of the case you may want to simply loosen the drive fasteners and slide it forward slightly to do this if the harness is in the way there. That steady light being seen does point at the drive itself as being the problem there however. You can move jumpers around all day and never see that stay on. If the power was reversed it would get hot fast and be noticed right away. The ide ribbon would simply effect control over the drive. If you don't see any immediate improvement you know the rest.
 
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bh70116

New Member
hi just wanted to let you know the drive itself is shot. i have ordered another one thank you for all your help.
 
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PC eye

banned
The better drives like Lite-On, Sony ,Plextor, NEC, and some others would be something to look at if the new one doesn't hold up. I've had a pair of 52x24x52 Sony cd-r/rw drives here that have been run since the 52x drives first started coming that still run like new. Hopefully the replacement will see the same.
 
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PC eye

banned
Personnally couldn't tell you on those. I would avoid Artec crap however. Those drives are about the cheapest made. When I ran an Artec 56x cd rom drive a few years back to try out a 56x cd drive to compare that to the 52x speed Sony drives available in retail chains as well as online the drive crapped in about 4-5 days. I hear good on Plextor and NEC drives as well as a few other brands. The Sony models have proven themselves here. I've already put three different models through some hard times and they keep going. Take a look at the three models here where the top one is the next model up from the CRX225 run here. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&description=&srchInDesc=&minPrice=&maxPrice=
 
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PC eye

banned
The full definition for what is termed the main drive controller after the old IDE type since became EIDE is best described at http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/E/EIDE.html

"EIDE:

Short for Enhanced IDE, a newer version of the IDE mass storage device interface standard developed by Western Digital Corporation. It supports data rates of between 4 and 16.6 MBps, about three to four times faster than the old IDE standard. In addition, it can support mass storage devices of up to 8.4 gigabytes, whereas the old standard was limited to 528 MB. Because of its lower cost, enhanced EIDE has replaced SCSI in many areas.
EIDE is sometimes referred to as Fast ATA or Fast IDE, which is essentially the same standard, developed and promoted by Seagate Technologies. It is also sometimes called ATA-2.

There are four EIDE modes defined. The most common is Mode 4, which supports transfer rates of 16.6 MBps. There is also a new mode, called ATA-3 or Ultra ATA, that supports transfer rates of 33 MBps"
 
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