Questions and prep for Liquid Cooling

C

CrazyMike

New Member
Hey,

So lately (don't know why) I have been intrigued about Liquid Cooling. So I went on over to the How To:Liquid Cooling 101 thread and took a gander. Noticing that it's one hell of a well done thread, I decided I want to go for it.

Now right now I am just pricing everything that I want to do out to see if first I can afford it lol. I am more going for aesthetics more than function. I mean, I'll use the function no doubt, but not the main purpose.

Here's what I have found so far:

XSPC Raystorm CPU Water Block
16a-500x500.jpg

XSPC Razer GTX680 GPU Water Block
gtx680-led21.jpg



FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250ML Res
05122011402.jpg


Some 3/8" tubing
vinyl-tubing-clear-500x500.png

Black Compression Fittings
db_file_img_1435_800xauto.jpg

Some Sort Of Pump (undecided)

Several Questions, please answer as many as you can:

1)What is your opinions on what I am trying to do?
2)Should I go Clear or White Tubing? (I thought maybe White because of my 600T Case is white)
3)What brand of compression fittings would look pretty good, but won't make my wallet hurt?
4)I want that sort of Resevoir, but are there better brands or will I be ok with that brand?
5)In order to liquid cool a GTX680, does it matter which GTX680 I buy? (I obviously need to buy one cause all I have is a 660 and it's retarded to liquid that one).
6)The reason I haven't picked out a pump yet is because I don't know if I should show off the pump (get a pump that looks good) or somehow hide the sucker. Opinion?
7) This one is random: I also want to replace my PSU with one that is quieter and is individually sleeved, suggestions? Or should I just sleeve it myself?

I could really use the help if possible. Please answer by number. Hopefully someone can give me advice.

Thanks
 
1. It's a cool project to work on. It's just really expensive. The loop I was looking at was between $450 and $550 for just CPU and a bit of over head for a GPU later on.

2. Either works. Clear can get stained with colored coolants so I would get colored just to have a consistent look. If you do go for clear tubing, Get Tygon.

3. Compression fittings are expensive. Best way to combat that is to try to avoid angled fittings. Make a map of how you want the loop layed out and see what fittings you will need.

4. That res is fine. A bit big for a 600T IMO but that is up to you. Here is another option that is not as flashy but still good
http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx

5. You need a reference PCB. So anything that says nVidia right next to the PCI express connector should be fine with a full cover block.

6. Do not skimp on the pump. This is one of the best that I know of
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp655.aspx
I believe there is also another pump that can mount to the bottom of that res. I can't comment on the performance. I never looked into it.

7. If you want to take the time to do it yourself you can, but I would do this instead
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Extension_Cable_-_White.html?tl=c473s1209b178
individually sleeved in whatever color you want.

Hope that helps for now. I'll be around to explain more if you need it.
 
salvage-this said:
1. It's a cool project to work on. It's just really expensive. The loop I was looking at was between $450 and $550 for just CPU and a bit of over head for a GPU later on.

2. Either works. Clear can get stained with colored coolants so I would get colored just to have a consistent look. If you do go for clear tubing, Get Tygon.

3. Compression fittings are expensive. Best way to combat that is to try to avoid angled fittings. Make a map of how you want the loop layed out and see what fittings you will need.

4. That res is fine. A bit big for a 600T IMO but that is up to you. Here is another option that is not as flashy but still good
http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx

5. You need a reference PCB. So anything that says nVidia right next to the PCI express connector should be fine with a full cover block.

6. Do not skimp on the pump. This is one of the best that I know of
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp655.aspx
I believe there is also another pump that can mount to the bottom of that res. I can't comment on the performance. I never looked into it.

7. If you want to take the time to do it yourself you can, but I would do this instead
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Extension_Cable_-_White.html?tl=c473s1209b178
individually sleeved in whatever color you want.

Hope that helps for now. I'll be around to explain more if you need it.
Click to expand...

Nice to see that your reply worked this time lol.

1) Ya, the cost seems to be high. But it's a challenge, so hope I can do it.
2) Good point! didn't think of staining. So I'll go with white tubing I think.
3) I wanted to go with compression fittings because they make me feel safer and I love the looks of them. I figure I could cut the cost of these by making sure I can use as little as possible. Any brand specific that look good with low cost?
4)What size should I be looking for? I was hoping for the Helix looking cylinder res, know of any that are bigger then the one I picked out?
5)So any reference card will work for water cooling? Like this one
6)That's the same pump I have been running into that looks to be the best pump to get, so I think I'll just hide it.
7)I actually didn't know that you can buy cables that are individually sleeved. I'll have to look into the cost of this.

Thanks for your reply man. I need all the help I can get.
 
It's really no problem. Seriously though I had this thread not too long ago. Hopefully the guys that helped me out will swing by the thread and comment.

1. I would say if you are planning on cooling both CPU and GPU you are looking around $500 as a starting point. Probably more like $600/$650 when it is all finished. Do you have a budget in mind?

3. I like compression fittings as well. I think they look really clean. just as a counter for cost savings you can use these as an alternative to zip ties.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...59_953&zenid=28cbe99f28b96b0bea7418d413009d24

that might save ~ $3 for every strait adapter. You will still need to buy barb fittings for the components that you want to connect.

4. Just to clear things up for me, Why do you want a bigger res? Are you thinking that Temps are going to be better?

5. Unfortunately no. The FTW edition is a custom PCB. However this one should be compatible with the full cover blocks. OkeyDokey might want to comment on that.

7. Cost vs time spent doing it yourself. I would buy them. unfortunately if you want something more custom you will have to do it yourself.
 
salvage-this said:
It's really no problem. Seriously though I had this thread not too long ago. Hopefully the guys that helped me out will swing by the thread and comment.

1. I would say if you are planning on cooling both CPU and GPU you are looking around $500 as a starting point. Probably more like $600/$650 when it is all finished. Do you have a budget in mind?

3. I like compression fittings as well. I think they look really clean. just as a counter for cost savings you can use these as an alternative to zip ties.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...59_953&zenid=28cbe99f28b96b0bea7418d413009d24

that might save ~ $3 for every strait adapter. You will still need to buy barb fittings for the components that you want to connect.

4. Just to clear things up for me, Why do you want a bigger res? Are you thinking that Temps are going to be better?

5. Unfortunately no. The FTW edition is a custom PCB. However this one should be compatible with the full cover blocks. OkeyDokey might want to comment on that.

7. Cost vs time spent doing it yourself. I would buy them. unfortunately if you want something more custom you will have to do it yourself.
Click to expand...

1) Kind of, not really though. More just pricing it out. If I can keep it under $1K (with replacement of card) I'll be ok.
3) I'll have to make that decision later down the road. I really do love the looks of Compression fittings and don't want to steer away from them. But if I have to, I guess I could get away with a few not.
4) I want a nice cylinder helix res that is large enough for what I am about to do. How does one know how big a res should be?
5) So as long as it's not an FTW Edition, I should be ok? I figure I should get a 4GB edition not the 2GB, it's just not right being a 680 and not 4GB.
7) Seeing as I have no idea what I am doing or where to get supplies to do it on my own, for the price, can't really object to just buying them. Really I only need the 24pin and x2 PCI connectors. That's all that the person sees.
 
1. that will be tough since you are getting a $600 card, but we'll see what we can do for you.
3. I would say leave anything that comes with barb fittings. For my build the res had barbs so I was planning on leaving those alone. Anything that I would need to buy adapters separately I would get compression fittings.
4. As far as I know there isn't really a benefit to having a bigger res. You shouldn't be getting any better temps because you have more liquid. It will end up being the same as a smaller res. More liquid means that you will have to fill it less due to evaporation.
5. You should be alright. What I would do now is find a block and email the company support. Just ask them to confirm compatibility.
 
4) So 250ml is fine for a res size then? I just wasn't sure if more components you add to a loop, with the change in rpm of the pump if you can cavitate the pump if you have a small res.
5) The water block I am planning to use is that XSPC Razer GTX680 GPU Water Block. So once I decide what card (prob the one you suggested) I'll email them, or just research if it'll fit.
 
4. Yeah it should be fine. Just be sure to fill up the loop correctly and get out all of the air bubbles. If you do that the size of the res, as far as I know, doesn't really matter.

5. It should be alright but an email to them wouldn't hurt :P
 
Quick question:

I was curious; If a person goes Rad > CPU > GPU > Res > Pump, would that allow the temp of the fluid more time to cool down? Mainly because it is running through the res then the rad.

Typical loop goes from the pump > CPU > GPU > Rad > Res as far as I know

Also, could a guy add like a 120mm rad after the CPU just before the GPU for little extra cooling? Or will not benefit?
 
possibly? Most loops flow at 1-1.5 GPM so eventually the loop will just find a nice equilibrium temperature for the whole loop. Most people figure 1 240 rad for each component in the loop so CPU and GPU will need a 480 (4 120 rads) to deal with the heat. Just be sure that you have enough cooling power and you will have good temps.
 
salvage-this said:
possibly? Most loops flow at 1-1.5 GPM so eventually the loop will just find a nice equilibrium temperature for the whole loop. Most people figure 1 240 rad for each component in the loop so CPU and GPU will need a 480 (4 120 rads) to deal with the heat. Just be sure that you have enough cooling power and you will have good temps.
Click to expand...

Good GOD! I need x2 240mm rads??

How come I see guys cooling a cpu and gpu in the same system with 1 240mm?
 
salvage-this said:
Sorry here is a better explamnation

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...rofile_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s570

That is a 480 rad. It might also be noted as a 120.4. 4 spots for a 120 fan 4 x 120= 480

you can split it up as 2 240 rads if you like as well.
Click to expand...

Looks like I have some brain storming to do about where to put 2 240 rads lol. Didn't know you needed that much. On swiftech's site, it shows them hooking up a 680 to the all-in-one I have (H220). Didn't think I needed more rad.

Site
Video
 
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There is no need for a new case. Look into 1 240 in the top and one thick 120 with high fins per inch for the back. That should be enough.

EDIT: sorry for the short replies. I'm on small breaks between jobs at work. I'll explain more when I can. :D
 
The closed watercoolers are ok, but I personally wouldn't recommend water cooling kit, as they are a lot of work in comparisons.

I've had a couple of water cooling kits and a lot of my job includes garden and pool maintenance, so i will share which you a bit of what ive experienced.

First off the most important parts of a kit is the pump and the tubing. You need to make sure they are of the highest quality possible. Both of my water cooling kit pumps failed and even good quality pool pumps fail quite often, the electric pump isn't the most reliable invention out there. Make sure that the bios has a shut off temperature (a low temp), you don't want to find out the pumps gone by overheating your components and crashing. Secondly tubing, even high quality tubing will lose it elasticity after a while and this causes problem around the connections. This will happen a lot at first after a new build as the connectors put a lot of pressure on the tubing to hold it tight and prevent leaks. After a month or so check the connections are still tight, ive been able to tighten some connections with my fingers, which were originally tightened with a spanner. It might takes months or years, but water always finds a way and not a question of if, but when it will leak. Your job will be to maintain it, which isn't a lot of work in itself and if you think its worth it, thats fine. For me personally there a lot of things to worry about in life, without adding more.
 
It looks like he is going to be building a new loop, not adding to the H220. So he should be fine on the quality of components.

You are right on the fittings. Most of the how-to guides that I was reading were saying that you need to set it up, run it for a week or so, then tighten again. check it periodically to make sure that you still have a snug fit.
 
Like said, probably not going to be using the H220 at all. All from scratch.

Fittings, most deffinately will have to design > 24hr test run > Install > then in a few weeks tighten again.

Why I think I need a new case is that you mentioned that 2x 240mm rad is ideal for 2 components. When I purchase all this, I will have 2 components already. So ideal would be 2x 240mm rad. Now if I just use my Corsair 600T case, I wouldn't be supplying ideal situation. I would only be doing what is necessary. So this means that in the future, if I decide on another card or expanding to support my motherboard, I would be in need of a new case anyway. I'd much rather do things right the first time, then come back and have to fix it later.

So I went and used FrozenCPU.com for reference and priced everything out. I am roughly looking, so far, approximately $1500. Over my $1000 hope mark, but actually surprisingly still do-able. I am working out all the details (case, and design of loop), so price details right now are fuzzy.
 
Just my $.02, but when you are running your tubing, it would be a really good idea to put a a radiator between your CPU and GPU so your not getting the hot coolant from component to the other.
 
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