No Post- MSI p6N Platinum

Synesthesia

Synesthesia

New Member
Setup: 2x 2gig OCZ Reaper 800mhz, above board, 2.6 GHZ core 2 duo, Zero Therm Nirvana, Thermaltake Tsunami case, MSI 8800 GT OC, Ultra X-connect XVS 500 Watt PSU, Rosewill PCI usb.

When I press the ON button, all of the fans start up, but it never makes any noises, nothing appears on the screen or even causes the screen to react, and the D-Bracket diagnostic tool doesn't display any diagnostic lights-but power is in fact going to it since I tested its built in usb ports. Me and a friend troubleshot it and weren't able to fix it. I tried one ram, then another alone, tried a friends 7800 GT to see if it was my gpu, it wasn't, replugged just about everything back in and triple checked everything...WHAT DO I DO NOW!? Should I just RMA it (Whatever that stands for) back to newegg? I need this thing to work, I spent 1/2 my bank on it.

....I installed the cpu perfectly, followed how to do it by the book, even had someone help me do it, who had done it 3X before! I checked all of the grounding, and the mobo seems perfectly grounded; the case came with this blunt screw like thing to put it 4mm above the mobo tray, so I put the rest in, which all rest on the bottom side of the mobo; the screws went into them and now hold it down.
 
No help? I just want to know whether to return it or not....I feel like the longer you wait, the less of a chance there is to have it replaced.

Really, any suggestions would be helpful.
 
First of all people need time to reply. Have you reviewed the power connections entirely including the wires coming in from the front panel to see if those are plugged in correctly? That would be the first step there. If wires are on incorrectly or not plugged in nothing will happen when the power button is pressed.

Since the wiring from the front panel goes onto a small block of pins it's easy to cross wire the power, reset, HD and power led wires or simply have them reversed. Carefully look those over as well as the main. Make sure that memory as well as the video and other cards are seated down properly in their slots. If? everything checks out you may have received a doa board and then need to rma it. Bad Caps or defect chipset, etc.
 
Yes, I checked everything. I even just checked the voltage coming from the power outputs, which are functioning correctly. Are there any known compatibility issues with my board?
 
I found out that there is a capacitor underneath the CPU on the other side of the board; apparently its bad if you cover it with the heat sink mounting bracket that I used, and that most decent ones have-could that be the problem in any way? Could I somehow avoid using the mounting bracket, or modify it?

If I RMA it, I might request a refund in order to choose a different board- which $130 price range mobo do you suggest? I was looking at the new Asus P5N-D.
 
Asus is one of the top brands. But I've still seen bad boards come in from them with things like bad caps. The cpu cooler may be the wrong one for that socket type explaining why you would see that press against something on the board itself. What cooler are you using there?
 
The Zero therm Nirvana. It is not very different from many other ones of the same price.

Is there a way to manually fix a broken board/ any way to troubleshoot? What is usually wrong, a physically broken part or something like a cold joint?
 
Synesthesia said:
The Zero therm Nirvana. It is not very different from many other ones of the same price.

Is there a way to manually fix a broken board/ any way to troubleshoot? What is usually wrong, a physically broken part or something like a cold joint?
Click to expand...

For the $44.99 price tag most will jump at the Zalman CNPS 9500 over that one seeing all copper fins. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118003

Manually replacing components on a board can be tedious as well as seeing a need for a surface mount kit for some things as well as a scope and being practically a pro at soldering. The best option for most is simply replacing the board RMAing it if still within the return period.
 
whats usually wrong with a motherboard when it doesnt function anymore is internal failure in one of the IC's (like the northbridge, or or one of the voltage regulators near the cpu etc), or broken capacitors. the problem however would be locating the broken part, because in quite a lot of cases, you cant measure the component with the rest of the circuit connected to it.
 
You can easily be seeing bad caps on a board as well as a failed chipset. For ICs you would need a logic tester and digital probe for those while a good oscilloscope/multimeter even would be used while power is being applied to the system in order to test other components one at a time and know what voltages/resistance values/capacitance should be seen for each one.
 
When the board quit after only the first 3 days here on a recent build there was no time wasted in seeing it shipped back for a replacement. At one time on the old systems the boards were far less complicated and saw larger components. The cost factor on replacing a board then prompted those with the experience to replace individual parts.

At this time with boards more complex simply rushing in with a soldering iron can actually do more harm then good except for those who are actually on the production line who likely reburbish returns. Unlike the old days when a new system ran for like $10,000 you see budget desktops prebuilt and custom for less then $700. Boards are one of the lower cost items these days except for when first seen.
 
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