Altec Lansing ADA885 and ADA890

KrisM

New Member
Kris

I appreciate the help. After checking it again and again I think i know what the problem is. one of the pin from the left speaker is missing ( i think it was broken due to age) so instead of me having 8 pins total, i only got 7. now i need to find what kind of plug is this and find one from our local shop and then strip the old one out and replace it with the new plug.


Affirmative - left front has 8 pins (right front has 9 pins). Good catch! Missing pin is probably still in the socket. Probably some form of DIN plug. Difficult task before you! Best of luck!

Possibly micro drill (dremmel?) hole in missing pin base, slide missing pin or stiff wire into hole and micro solder. I have none of that equipment and my hand is no where near enough steady to do that, but there are folks who could...
 

KrisM

New Member
a post got posted here and then quickly deleted, probably (very appropriately) by mods.
text
Very quickly I noticed that it had great sound. Also equally quickly I noticed that the sub woofer would rather quickly stop working. sometimes there was a bit of whistling before it died.

Very likely a bad capacitor in the subwoofer electronics box.


Get a new ID and post w/o ads! :D
 

ropeladder

New Member
Just in case you guys are still around:

My 890s just died inexplicably (e.g. plugging them in makes no difference; nothing lights up or turns on or makes any noise). I opened them up but there are no obvious problems (to my untrained eyes, at least). If I get a voltmeter and poke around, would I have any chance of figuring out what the matter is? Where should I start looking?
 

KrisM

New Member
yeah, probably one of the two fuses that look like resisters. I'll go back in this thread and see where I mentioned them.

EDIT: yeah, post #4 has a link to my picasa - look at picture number 8
 
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ropeladder

New Member
Ok, I found those fuses, or rather fuse. It looks like they changed them in my version: one of them is simply not there (it just looks like a wire goes straight across) and the other one is a red squarish box that says 2.5A on it. There is nothing obviously wrong. Check out the pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/ropeladder/ADA890?feat=directlink

EDIT: I should maybe note, the one part that doesn't look clean and pretty is over on the board to the right on the 3rd picture. (it says ADA885EQ)
 
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KrisM

New Member
Ok, I found those fuses, or rather fuse. It looks like they changed them in my version: one of them is simply not there (it just looks like a wire goes straight across) and the other one is a red squarish box that says 2.5A on it. There is nothing obviously wrong. Check out the pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/ropeladder/ADA890?feat=directlink

EDIT: I should maybe note, the one part that doesn't look clean and pretty is over on the board to the right on the 3rd picture. (it says ADA885EQ)

Did you put an ohm or continuity tester across that red thing?

The other board is probably fine...
 

KrisM

New Member
Don't have an ohm meter handy... I'll see if I can get a hold of one.

I would do that - that was the one that blew, part way through my process of "fixing it" - system seemed totally dead - no light, nothing. In the pic you can see a fine wire soldered around that first one.
 

ropeladder

New Member
I would do that - that was the one that blew, part way through my process of "fixing it" - system seemed totally dead - no light, nothing. In the pic you can see a fine wire soldered around that first one.

So you simply bypassed the fuse instead of replacing it?
 

KrisM

New Member
So you simply bypassed the fuse instead of replacing it?

Yes, of course I don't recommend that - you could conceivably burn your house down. But I have my speakers plugged into a power strip with a light so they're generally off when I'm not around. So I made a decision for me. You have to make a decision for you. :eek: :D

EDIT: you will note, though, that I used a pretty fine wire!!!
 
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ropeladder

New Member
I borrowed a multimeter and checked the fuses. (using the continuity check) Everything seems to be ok.

Any idea for next steps?
 

KrisM

New Member
Is there an easy way to check if the transformer is working or if there's something wrong with the power cable?

If you have a fundamental understanding of electricity and electronics, yes, otherwise, find a friend who does who can follow your line of questioning! Go for it!!! :good:
 

ropeladder

New Member
I have a basic understanding of concepts, and put together a breadboard or two when I was a kid, but that's about it. :)

One more question: on your unit does the LED on the sub turn on whenever it is plugged in or only when speakers are actually on? (or in other words, do I need to worry about plugging in the speakers when I'm testing things?)

Thanks for all your help.
 

KrisM

New Member
I have a basic understanding of concepts, and put together a breadboard or two when I was a kid, but that's about it. :)

One more question: on your unit does the LED on the sub turn on whenever it is plugged in or only when speakers are actually on? (or in other words, do I need to worry about plugging in the speakers when I'm testing things?)

Thanks for all your help.

I just tested - the light is on if there is power to the system, and whether or not I turn it on or off at the right/front/speaker control button. The sub light also stays on if the left or right front speakers are unplugged. I believe the light will not light if the interlock that plugs by the fuse and goes down to the sub and back up is not complete. There's also a fuse on the back of the case - could that have blown???
 
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leetoctopus

New Member
Hello,

I have an ADA885 that I've used for over 11 years now, with multiple fixings throughout its life. The first fix was ~5 years in - I would hear the sub cut in and out, and what I believe is the relay flipping on and off. At the same time, the LCD display on the right speaker was stable, so I am pretty sure the satellites were fine. To fix this, a coworker at the time who was a hardware engineer resoldered (and possibly replaced) a bunch of caps on (I think) the larger, multi-story PCB board - the one that receives the signal inputs and has the large heatsink.
More recently, about 3-4 months ago, my system would start cutting out in a similar way as before, but it usually happened once the system *heated up* (was on for hours). The whole sound system would start stuttering as if it had intermittent power. The LCD on the right satellite would turn on and off, or stay somewhere in between and become faint, or look like it is flickering on and off at a very high frequency. Finally, I think the system started to turn on and off (relay sound?) again. This time, my dad helped replace the 3 large caps on the same multi-story PCB, because we decided that they leaked out -- they had a dried brown liquid on the bottom.

So, after that, the system was stable for about 3 months. And now it started misbehaving again. Similar as last time, the LCD would become faint/flickery (but possibly stay at that stage for a while - music plays just fine throughout this) OR the system would start turning on and off very quickly (relay can be heard switching on/off again). This time though, the system did NOT need to heat up first. This would happen randomly, sometimes immediately after I turn it on, sometimes hours later. Also, I would be able to get it to stabilize with the use of some percussive maintenance (I know how horrible that is, yes). After that, it would stay on just fine for hours until I turn it off for the day. I think that lately, the issue happens as soon as I turn it on on the next day. Because of this, my dad and I believe it might be a matter of something (cable, components, etc.) not making a good contact, or perhaps a cold solder joint... we just don't know.

Anyway, I am not sure if Kris (or anyone else for that matter) is still at this forum and would see this, but my question is -- does anyone have an idea what the problem may be? I have dismounted the second PCB (from the sub speaker compartment), and see that all the large capacitors have the dried brown liquid on the bottom. A simpler question, I hope: in the pics here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/113065125154002109926/ADA885
have the capacitors leaked out? Or is this some sort of glue that was used during construction? It looks like a leak, but then in one pic, near the inductor (coil), there is a clearly visible drop of what looks like the same brown stuff as is under the capacitors. I can't tell if this is by design, or perhaps a spray from the caps, or neither :/.
My current plan is to have all the caps replaced regardless (just ordered new ones) and possibly fix some possible cold solder joints on the bottom of the PCB (sadly, nothing looks obviously wrong to my "Goolge-images-trained" eye).
 
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dudwity

New Member
to make things short...

common issues and what i have done to fix it.
i have the AD890 for ~7 years. and encountered several problems all documented in this thread and others.

1. no bass/clicking sound of the relay/bass comes and goes - resolderd the relay on the inside PCB.

2. degradation in bass performance/degradation on other speaker performance - 70-80% of the electrolytic capacitors had HI ESR! check and replace!. in my case the sub woofer was nearly impossible to ear. (fixed it yesterday).

3.no sound/sound only in dolby mode or something similar - check the Headphones jack. it might be shorted. i disconnected one of the wires and it fixed the thing.

good luck!
 

leetoctopus

New Member
Thanks for the post, dudwity!

I should post the results of my fiddling though, for posterity: it seems I lucked out (so far, and hopefully) - resoldering those possible cold-solder joints fixed my problems, without having to use any new capacitors. The likely culprit was one of the relay's legs, though it may have been one on a ceramic capacitor or any one from the couple we resoldered.

It's good to have the oh-so-sweet sound back once again. :D
 

dudwity

New Member
wonderful :)

Thanks for the post, dudwity!

I should post the results of my fiddling though, for posterity: it seems I lucked out (so far, and hopefully) - resoldering those possible cold-solder joints fixed my problems, without having to use any new capacitors. The likely culprit was one of the relay's legs, though it may have been one on a ceramic capacitor or any one from the couple we resoldered.

It's good to have the oh-so-sweet sound back once again. :D

BTW, the brown stuff at the bottom of the electrolytic capacitor is some kind of glue.
 
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