Aquarium computer

Yeti

VIP Member
I guess if it were me building that, I would duct the air out the top so there would be no modding the tank. You'll have to kind of map out the flow either way - no point in briinging the air in if it gets sucked out before going past the HSF. And if I felt ambitious I would bridge a few heat pipes from the CPU to a heat sink in contact with the water... that would keep it running cool.
 

Praetor

Administrator
Staff member
If you're gonna make an acquarium computer why not use submerssion cooling???? It keeps everything simple and straightforward
 

Grimulus

New Member
i've seen a case like this...it was a few years ago. it was pretty awesome. there are some diode liquids and what not that won't hurt your stuff...i've seen a running motherboard and video card submerged in the stuff. might be a good idea...of course water is thinner so it may not be the best way to test...but why not test it outside of the case? :p

you could put something underneath the tank it's self that is just a touch bigger than the thank and bend the sides to make a lip...if your tank leaks, it will drip there. it wouldn't look bad...and be safe at least from the beginning.

just remember this thing is going to be an EXTREME PAIN if you have to move it. hope you aren't a lanner. also, you need to make sure it's out of harms way for getting bumped...that water in the case will be heavy enough to cause a tip. :p

last and final thing...i hope your family doesn't own a cat...if you build it and they do...i'm sorry.

i think it's a cool idea. be careful and best of luck.
 

691175002

New Member
Praetor said:
If you're gonna make an acquarium computer why not use submerssion cooling???? It keeps everything simple and straightforward

That would be awsome but really expensive to do it well. From what I remember the 3M stuff is like 500$ a 4 gallon barrel!:eek:. You could use oil or something like some people have done but that would permenently oilafy anything you put in.:(

About puting the ducting to come out of the top of the tank, It might be hard to make the duct strong enough.
 

Echo_

New Member
id make the casing for the comp like have the casing for the comp then have another one right after just in case the outer breaks then you can fix it so it wont mess up with inner if it breaks, or if the inner breaks you can fix it before the watter breaks the outter or something like a double hull
 

Praetor

Administrator
Staff member
That would be awsome but really expensive to do it well.
Perhaps however if you're consdiering (1) fish tank (2) modding fish tank .... the expense of sealing the mobo and parts isnt all that out of there ;)

From what I remember the 3M stuff is like 500$ a 4 gallon barrel
Yeah something like that :)
 

elmarcorulz

VIP Member
Echo_ said:
id make the casing for the comp like have the casing for the comp then have another one right after just in case the outer breaks then you can fix it so it wont mess up with inner if it breaks, or if the inner breaks you can fix it before the watter breaks the outter or something like a double hull


they did that with the titanic, and look what happened to that
 

Yeti

VIP Member
From what I remember the 3M stuff is like 500$ a 4 gallon
Yeah, Flouinert ain't cheap.
You could use oil or something like some people have done but that would permenently oilafy anything you put in.
That's one reason I wouldn't want submersion - I'd forget to do something on the board and have to take it out... or something would go wrong and I'd have to take it out... either way its messy.
About puting the ducting to come out of the top of the tank, It might be hard to make the duct strong enough.
Strong enough for what? As opposed to ducts going through the bottom which are actual structural members?
the expense of sealing the mobo and parts isnt all that out of there
Eh, wouldn't be too expensive to seal it. A little epoxy and some silicon sealant.
they did that with the titanic, and look what happened to that
Lol, I'd hope that the computer wouldn't have to go up against any icebergs :p
 
Last edited:

cell4me

banned
To answer yeti's question about distilled water! Plain, distilled water (good ol’ H2O and nothing else) is not conductive by itself. So, if it comes into contact with an electronic part, chances are it won’t do anything.
 

691175002

New Member
cell4me said:
To answer yeti's question about distilled water! Plain, distilled water (good ol’ H2O and nothing else) is not conductive by itself. So, if it comes into contact with an electronic part, chances are it won’t do anything.

Yes but distilled water is very corrosive and will destroy the parts anyways.

Yeti said:
strong enough for what? As opposed to ducts going through the bottom which are actual structural members?

The casing will be full of air and when you have that much air underwater there is going to be a lot of presure upwards.
 

Yeti

VIP Member
To answer yeti's question about distilled water! Plain, distilled water (good ol’ H2O and nothing else) is not conductive by itself. So, if it comes into contact with an electronic part, chances are it won’t do anything.
Distilled water is still conductive. If it were distilled, deionized, and then degassed it would have a very low conductivity, but as 691175002 mentioned it is very corrosive especially to stainless steel.
The casing will be full of air and when you have that much air underwater there is going to be a lot of presure upwards.
Yes, I am quite aware of the bouyant force. However, with ducting out the top you wouldn't have to use the ducts as structural support; the box could be held in place another way. You could even weight the box properly to make it free floating.
 
Top