clquestor,
You're welcome.
As for those "clips" I don't know what you're talking about, but it you mean those little finger-like tabs of metal around all the ports stocking out towards the back of the I/O panel (and towards the mobo ports), I just left them in -- they MAY be there to make contact with the metal "housings" of the various ports on the motherboard, for additional grounding (the port housings to the case), to exert spring-like pressure against the I/O ports for good grounding contact...I don't know. My higher-end ASUS motherboard's I/O panel -- on my primary PC -- also had those tabs/projections.
The Biostar's I/O shield is pretty thin and cheap-looking, but it snapped into place fine (my cheap case had the I/O shield rectangle cut right on -- some cheap cases do not) and although the thin metal bulges out a tad here and there (due to those tabs in the back) I don't see it as any big deal -- just a cosmetic issue. Frankly, many motherboards have crappy I/O shields, and some don't even fit into the case's I/O shield opening very well (too loose or too tight)...the Biostar A880G+ I/O shield fits pretty well. So did the ASUS (although it was of slightly thicker/stiffer metal).
Whatever, I have never removed any of the "tabs" on any of the I/O shields that have come with any of my mobos.
I DID, however, have to remove the metal tab actually blocking the HDMI port -- apparently it was a "cover" (of sorts) for the HDMI port in case you did not intend to use an HDMI cable, which kind of defeats the purpose of a mobo having an HDMI port: Of course it will be used (especially for a HTPC build)! Well, I didn't actually remove it, just bent it upwards so it rested on top of the mobo's HDMI port housing (making contact with it)...in other words, just bent the tab up out of the way just enough to rest on top of the HDMI port housing with a bit of pressure and to clear the opening so my HDMI cable would go into the mobo's HDMI port.
Everything's working fine.
IMO, how well (or not) an I/O shield fits is a minor (cosmetic) issue and has nothing to to with how the board WORKS...which has been just fine (so far). I worry more about the mobo's IO ports not matching up properly to the I/O shield cutouts than I do those tabs!
As for the Biostar A880G+ mobo, all the parts I put in worked, and the OS (Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit OEM version) installed without incident and the HTPC booted right up just fine. I forget what the Windows Experience Score was for the GSkill Value Memory (named above), but it was one of the higher scores compared to the other components. So as I said, no complaints about the memory (and it's just a HTPC anyway). My "policy" with PC builds is to max-out the mobo's memory right up front (for several reasons) so I get it all at once -- so it's all the SAME brand, SAME chips and SAME specs...so there should be no "compatibility" issues -- and there hasn't been. Consequently, in this case (Biostar A880G+ mobo) I got two 4GB modules of that GSkill Value RAM so the mobo is now maxxed-out memory-wise (8GB). At $22.99 per 4GB module x 2 = $45.98 total (with free shipping), it wasn't that expensive to get it all up front at the same time. So I did.
Again though, this is not my main PC, I just had 3 components left over from upgrading my primary (ASUS) desktop PC -- the CPU (AMD Phenom II X2 3.2GHz), an old (2003) Okia 450-Watt PSU, and an old (also 2003) Sony DVD/RW drive -- so I decided to use the old parts in a dedicated HTPC to sit next to my TV (rather than just store them away in a box, to remain unused forever maybe). So to build the HTPC I needed some additional new parts: A CHEAP (but fairly-well rated) microATX mobo (no need for a more expensive full ATX mobo as in my primary PC); a CHEAP but well-rated microATX mini-tower case (the HTPC cases had too many poor reviews) without a PSU of course; CHEAP but decent 1333 DDR3 RAM (don't need high-performance/gaming-level stuff, just "Value RAM" will do); and the X2/3.2GHz CPU is MORE than sufficient for a HTPC. And although the Biostar A880G+'s on-board/integrated video (ATI Radeon HD-4250) would be FINE for HTPC use, I wanted just a notch above integrated video performance, so I put in a cheap (but well-rated), low-power consumption, discrete video card (I chose the PNY 1GB DDR3 nVidia GeForce GT-520)...it installed fine also (but I'll be updating the video driver since nVidia just came out with an update in August, IIRC: The GeForce "280.26" driver & nVidia Control Panel).
Over the years I have bought/used higher-end mobos (Tyan, DFI, ASUS) as well as low-end mobos (FIC, ECS, Biostar, etc.)...seems like it's a crap shoot re: "getting a good one" as any one of them, expensive or not, can have issues. So I don't mind taking a chance on a low-end board, IF it has fairly decent ratings and has the features I need for a particular application. Besides, you can always RMA it back to NewEgg (at least that's where I get most of MY stuff) if you can't get it to work (you should know REAL quick -- in a couple of days/a week at most -- which leaves plenty of time left to RMA it back to NewEgg)or AFTER 30 days, to the manufacturer. SURELY within a year (usual manufacturers warranty period?) -- if the board has not failed -- it probably won't. But if you DO buy a low-end board and think you MIGHT have an issue with it, then get the "replacement insurance policy" for it, that way if it DOES mess up, you can get a replacement. If it the replacement also fails, then it's time to look for a different mobo, if not from the same maker, a different one. Due to the Biostar A880G+ not having a higher percentage of 5-star reviews as I usually prefer with a product, THIS time I DID take out that "replacement insurance" and paid an extra $14.99, in case I need to return it (after the 30 days time limit to RMA it to NewEgg has expired) and I don't want any hassles getting a replacement mobo. But usually, I do NOT get any such extended coverage, just in this case I thought it prudent (again, due to the lower % of 5-star reviews is had).
As I said, I'm only using this Biostar mobo in a HTPC, but it'd make a decent backup dekstop PC (I am also getting a USB WiFi device for it so it has Internet access, and later on a TV tuner also) if I ever needed it, and being smaller (in a microATX case) it's more "portable" (easier to move/takes up less space) than my primary ASUS dekstop PC -- and it's QUIETER!
Since you aleady have this mobo, so I hope some of the info above is of use to you...or to someone else looking to build an "entry-level" dekstop PC, a HTPC or backup PC (or a "loaner" PC) using this specific mobo.
Good luck...
