Benny Boy
Active Member
It's not the same. Pressure will cause water condensation in the compressor's tank because the pressure is created by air. The cans pressure is engineered by chemicals/gas and produce for the most part an insignificant amount of residue. A compressor, assuming it has a tank, has another way to produce condensation that the can doesn't. Temperature variations. Compressors generally aren't stored in a climate controlled environment like the can.
A 10oz duster can is about 85psi untill after you pull the trigger the first time - less as you use it. Not 100 and 200 is in the stratusphere.
I have more than an idea. I've used compressors from as small as a tankless few lbs put-putting along for an airbrush to HVLP setups that use turbins for thier air, etc to a v8 rig for large equipment. And dozens of various other in-between sizes, models, and types for many types of tools and equipment. I'm no compressor expert but I definatley have a lot of experience using them, and have learned some things along the way. Including extensive experience in a field where compressor produced water/oil/residue in general, even when it's presents isn't visable coming out of a nozzle, makes a significant impact. Whether a compressor is gas or electric has no bearing on whether it will procude water/oil/residue in the tank or air lines.
Tanked compressors produce/aquire moisture. Plain and simple. Since I don't work at a canned duster factory I won't 100% say that the can doesn't produce any condensation while in use, but I don't think it does because its gas pressure not air pressure, and because of its environment. And if it somehow does produce it, I think the chemicals used to make it could very well chemically change H2O to prevent it. The important part here is that a compressor does in fact create 100's of x more moisture , even if the can produces any at all.
The tank can have moisture from temperature changes, let alone any created by any amount of air pressure. As a matter of fact, smaller tanks have a higher propensity for it.
Unreasonable because the time spent in spraying out our computer is time spent spraying out your computer. Doesn't matter if it's for 2 minutes in one spot or for 20 secs at a time 6 different times at different spots. Its still 2 minutes of spraying your computer. If thre's something in the tank or line thats going to come out, during which 2 minutes do you want it? If you haven't properly maintained your compressor, it has water/rust in the tank.
You probably have a 'pancake' type compressor that gets it name from the shape of the tank, altho it could be one with the conventionally shaped one. The tank size tells me it has an electric motor(even tho you already said so) and it has an 'oil free' compressor, meaning it doesn't use oil for lubrication due to its Teflon parts. It's probably regulated for 120max psi as noted on the regulators guage. Carpenters/woodworkers like those for field use because of its size, its portable, takes one hand to carry it, lower power draw for extension cords, temp utility poles, commonly amped sockets, and nail guns only need short bursts of usually 90lbs depending on the gun. Staple guns and brad tackers require less. And they're handy around the house for airing up a tire and such. You might be able to use it with a siphon type cup paint gun for a small sized object or for short periods of time with on a hopper depending on the vescosity of the material, something like that...
Rust. It will be present in a steel tank.
If the compressor (not motor) is the type that uses oil for lubrication, the oil will seep past the piston rings and valve guides and make its way into the pipes/copper tubing that feed the compressed air to the tank and eventually into the tank itself.
Remember that small amounts of residue may not be seen.
If your going to use a compressor to clean a pc, avoid risk and take some precautions.
Before each use:
Make sure the compressor's plug and the wall socket has ground.
Pump the unit up, power it off and unplug it.
Some eye protection wouldn't hurt.
Crack open the cockpit(drain plug)on the tank. Just barely open it because opening it too far allows the air pressure to push the fluid to the side of the opening instead of it reaching and emptying out of the drain hole. Altho the cockpit is strategically placed to allow for drainage, the tank usually requires a slight tilt to get that perfectly positioned if you want to be sure and drain all you can.
Get something like this that fits. This type goes between the regulator and the hose, or you can find one that fits behind the nozzle.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100027474/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=compressor+air+filter&storeId=10051
And if I was always going to use a compressor for a pc I would have the cheap vinyl air hose instead of the better ones that have steel mesh reinforcment, just so I wouldn't have metal extending from the wall socket to the nozzle.
Use just enough pressure to move loose dust and use something like a soft brustle brush(paint brush) for dust that isn't loose.
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