How To: Liquid Cooling 101

Machin3 said:
You can add a silver coil to the loop and it'll work fine for the most part. I'd recommend using NUKE-PHN too. But just as long as there's no copper ions in the loop or nickel and copper closely in contact with each other, its hard to say that a problem should arise at any point.
Most blocks now days are made with EN (nickel) and don't really use copper anymore.
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A very basic view of chemistry and not accurate. Add silver at your own peril.
 
A lot of people use a silver coil in their loop and no one has ever complained of a problem when using all nickel blocks. I don't why anyone would mix block metals in the first place.

But fine as YOU see it use NUKE-PHN in the distilled water. I've used both and never saw a problem myself and I've been around water cooling for a really long time and I've seen how systems perform and change.
 
bigfellla said:
That is complete rubbish.
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No, the most popular components only contain stainless steel, copper, nickel, chrome, and brass. They're all close enough on the galvanic chart that they don't have problems with each other. And besides, an anti corrosive will only retard the problem, not eliminate it altogether.
 
just a noob said:
No, the most popular components only contain stainless steel, copper, nickel, chrome, and brass. They're all close enough on the galvanic chart that they don't have problems with each other.
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What? Lol.

Corros1.gif


I disagree, and so do most people who understand this topic. Also, if you don't think it is an issue, see this thread .

Corrosion can be avoided by the use of a low-conducting, anti-corrosion liquid (which,
in principle, is also distilled or deionized water). It is recommended to exchange the liquid
with a fresh one after a period of time to remove the possibly dissolved ions from the closed
water-cooling system. The introduction of additional metals into the system (silver, etc.) or
the use of ionic algaecides (copper sulfate, etc.) even in minor concentrations can trigger the
corrosion processes. Avoid the use of acidic substances, especially when using copper metal.
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Revie, W.R., Uhlig, H.H. (2008). Corrosion and corrosion control. An introduction to
corrosion science and engineering.

But unfortunately the ions increase in concentration over time. Use anticorrosive, forget the silver.
 
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bigfellla said:
this thread .


But unfortunately the ions increase in concentration over time. Use anticorrosive, forget the silver.
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I don't get it then, in the first sentence there it says "Corrosion can be avoided by the use of a low-conducting, anti-corrosion liquid (which,
in principle, is also distilled or deionized water)"

Why would you need and anti-corrosive additive added as you pointed out earlier? It clearly says in the first sentence that distilled water will prevent corrosion. What your research fails to point out is what kind of blocks are being used. I would assume they are copper.

Besides, you would be using the silver coil for anti-algae means. If you are using all nickel plated blocks, ask anyone who builds water cooling systems now days, that they have no problem at all adding a silver coil. I know thousands of people who do it and not a single person has complained of corrosion. And note: this is using DISTILLED WATER + SILVER COIL + EN blocks.
 
:eek:
Machin3 said:
I don't get it then, in the first sentence there it says "Corrosion can be avoided by the use of a low-conducting, anti-corrosion liquid (which,
in principle, is also distilled or deionized water)"

Why would you need and anti-corrosive additive added as you pointed out earlier? It clearly says in the first sentence that distilled water will prevent corrosion. What your research fails to point out is what kind of blocks are being used. I would assume they are copper.


... I know thousands of people who do it and not a single person has complained of corrosion. And note: this is using DISTILLED WATER + SILVER COIL + EN blocks.
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Because it works like this:

  1. You have a localised chemistry in the block (area affected) called Crevice corrosion
  2. This weakens the nickel and causes it to corrode locally exposing the copper
  3. Exposed copper causes the galvanic cell to become active and accelerates the corrosion further.

This is all caused by adding silver, or disimilar metals (even the same metals have slightly different EV levels as they are not 100% pure), increasing the concentration of ions. Technically when you first add deionised water, its non-conductive, but very quickly, it becomes conductive as ions increase in the solution. Then the above happens. Basic chemistry.

Also, I very much doubt you know thousands of people.

Finally thanks for the great post. But if you go to OC website you will see your thousands of people recommending NOT to use silver coil. Also, you might note, (if you hadn't already), i water cool too.
 
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you can have copper,nickel,brass and stainless steel in your loop. If you have aluminum with one of the metals I mentioned you will get galvanic corrosion.
most water coolers use 3/8,7/16, and 1/2 tubing
people use 1/2 barbs with 7/16 tubing for a tighter fit/seal
 
Updated this guide today. Made it a lot simpler, no bold and flashy colors and no bigger font sizes so it should be easier to read. Also rearranged the wording in the paragraphs to make it easier to understand and such. No BS statements now or anything like that.

-Added more into the putting together section and also added best brands to each component in blue.

-Added #3 with a complete store list for US, UK, and Australia.

-Changed the pictures, adding more product examples and such.

-Added videos by Juggalo, excellent guide for water cooling.

Everything should be completed now. I'll add things as time goes by and new products are introduced.
 
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bigfellla said:
Who said only add distiller water?
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I think he's a spammer. He's linking different websites on each post. I've already posted him on the 'Report Spam Thread'.

If you try to quote him you him will see the links he is posting.
 
Great guide looking at doing it myself. But is liquid cooling quieter then air cooling? My concern is the pump I know not all pumps are the quietest.
 
The Swiftech MCP655, the one that is pictured and I own, is very quiet and you can't hear it at all.
 
Well it is in the sense that you get quiet fans for your radiator, because don't forget, you still need fans to cool the radiator so if you choose some quiet fans such as cooler master r4's for example it will be pretty quiet.
 
I would more readily say, unless your over specing your water cooling rig, (like double what you have now) in terms of radiator size, it will be as loud. It will just mean you can have some really great temps.
 
Great guide, sounds silly, but I would put Frozen CPU at the top of the list for the US, their site is easier to use and usually has the same or better prices than performance pcs IMHO.
 
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