My comp's volts/temps...

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Pyrox920

New Member
So I have recently put together this rig, (e6750 (not overclocked), 680i, 8800, fan, and PSU)

And I'm getting concerning/conflicting readings from PC Wizard 2008 and Speedfan. I know the PSU is cheap, but it had good reviews, so i thought it was fine. When I got it and was setting it up, I realized it had only one 4-pin cord to go in the 8-pin 12v slot on the mobo. So I got this adapter.

Well the problem with the volts seems to be a combination of a software failure and an under performing PSU. PC wizard gives these volt readings:

+3.3V Voltage : 11.14 V
+5V Voltage : 4.73 V
+12V Voltage : 11.14 V

Obviously it's reading the +12v voltage as both the 3.3v and the 12v. That's what i think is a software issue. The main problem is the fact that the +12v voltage is so low. The +5v is also a little off, but i don't think thats too bad. Is this something I should be concerned about? Am I going to have to buy a new PSU?

The second problem is that speedfan is saying my CPU temps are averaging 42c on idle, and 55c+ under full load. Thats too high for sure, and it might be because I put to much thermal grease on the HS. However, PC Wizard gives my CPU 32c on idle and, well, 32 on full load :/ . So which one do I believe? I'd like to believe pc wizard.. but I don't, cause the temp never changes, from full load to none. And the temp for speedfan changes really fast, like 3 seconds to go up 10c.

Also, on a sidenote, how do you check your framerate in a game (like the crysis demo)?

Thanks!
 
pc wizard is more accurate with the C2D, you could always check on the bios which is the most accurate way from all.

Btw what power supply did you buy? brand/model
 
I can't recall exactly what my 12v voltage is, but I recall it was read fairly low. My computer has yet to give me any problems, but you still may want to look into it. If you have a voltage meter handy, try checking the connections on a molex plug and see if you're getting anything closer to 12v there.
 
I remember some motherboards had an "pencil mod" to make the voltages higher..

An small Vdroop is normal. Don't worry about it unless your PSU is on fire... or smoking...
 
Those readings really warrant further investigation. The +3.3V is obviously incorrect, but the +12V and +5V are both outside ATX specifications. Are these readings at idle or load? Software readings should always be considered dubious, but I'd check with a multimeter, if at all possible. What does the BIOS say when you boot up? Do you have access to another PSU you can try?

I remember some motherboards had an "pencil mod" to make the voltages higher..
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+3.3V, +5V and +12V aren't regulated by the motherboard - no board mods will change them.

An small Vdroop is normal.
Click to expand...
Vdroop refers to changes in the CPUs core voltage, not the PSUs actual rails.

Don't worry about it unless your PSU is on fire... or smoking...
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Readings like this can be dangerous. If they're actually that low, ripple is quite possibly through the roof as well, resulting in a high likelihood of long term component damage. There's also a strong possibility that the unit will fail entirely, potentially surging other components.
 
Well, I check the voltages in the BIOS, and it actually looks really good.

+12v : 12.03
+5v: 5.04
+3.3v: 3.20

But then I noticed Speedfan is giving the same readings for the +12v as PC Wizard.... I don't know what to believe! The readings for both PC wizard and Speedfan never changes, from full load too none, but the bios had it changing from 12.01 to 12.03.
 
ceewi1 said:
Those readings really warrant further investigation. The +3.3V is obviously incorrect, but the +12V and +5V are both outside ATX specifications. Are these readings at idle or load? Software readings should always be considered dubious, but I'd check with a multimeter, if at all possible. What does the BIOS say when you boot up? Do you have access to another PSU you can try?


+3.3V, +5V and +12V aren't regulated by the motherboard - no board mods will change them.


Vdroop refers to changes in the CPUs core voltage, not the PSUs actual rails.


Readings like this can be dangerous. If they're actually that low, ripple is quite possibly through the roof as well, resulting in a high likelihood of long term component damage. There's also a strong possibility that the unit will fail entirely, potentially surging other components.
Click to expand...

Ahh... oops.. Sorry :( I remember an post like this from along time ago... guess I got mixed up. Sorry
 
oscaryu1 said:
Ahh... oops.. Sorry :( I remember an post like this from along time ago... guess I got mixed up. Sorry
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No problems :) Just had to point it out.

Pyrox920 said:
Well, I check the voltages in the BIOS, and it actually looks really good.

+12v : 12.03
+5v: 5.04
+3.3v: 3.20
Click to expand...
Unfortunately the BIOS can only give you an idle measurement (and is most certainly not guaranteed to be accurate), but when it's this far off the software idle measurement, I'd be willing to bet that the software measurements are wrong.

But then I noticed Speedfan is giving the same readings for the +12v as PC Wizard....
Click to expand...
That doesn't necessarily make them any more accurate - it's likely that both programs are reading the same incorrect value.

The readings for both PC wizard and Speedfan never changes, from full load too none,
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That itself is enough to cast serious doubts on the accuracy of these readings. What are you using to load the system?

but the bios had it changing from 12.01 to 12.03.
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That's fairly normal.

Given all this, I'd strongly suspect that the software readings are off, and you probably don't have anything to worry about. Diagnosing these sort of things without the proper equipment, is very error prone, though. The only way to confirm would be through the use of a multimeter. Does the PSU appear to be struggling at all? E.g. Is the fan running at very high speeds?
 
Thanks for the reassurance! I suspected the software was off when the volts never changed. I'm running 64-bit Vista, so that might cause some sort of software compatibility issue.

Also, I read on here that BIOS isn't actually idle, it's more around 30% CPU usage.
 
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