How are you attaching the block to the motherboard?
Or did I miss something?
Looks have little to do with ghetto. Go used a block of copper and a drill/drillpress to make a waterblock. Then there is the fountain pump and glass jar. You are in downtown ghetto.It actually really isnt ghetto at all, I just haven't made it looks pretty- yet. The block needs to get its leaks sealed, and then I can move on to poishing and maybe painting it?
And the reservoir/pump combo looks nice. There was just a lot of condensation on top. Tw radiator just looks like a normal aluminum radiator... Lol
Based on how it is looking right now, I would guess something like a x pattern with a strait bracket (http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202077...roductId=202077353&storeId=10051#.UTwtEBzrz-Q) would work and fit the theme.How are you attaching the block to the motherboard?
Or did I miss something?
Also why one should go with market instead of DIY.Based on how the rest of the mess looks, I'm guessing he will let the thermal paste hold the block on, as well as cool the CPU....
No one here is saying that decent cooling takes those components. But you could have very simply just grabbed a off teh market waterblock and had a much better component with very little out of pocket. You are taking a hell of a risk making your own block.Seems like I'm in the forum where everyone only thinks that decent cooling is possible by buying a H100i or a kraken x60, or by dropping hundreds of dollars on a custom loop... Sad world we live in.
Power scales. If you pumped up a Swiftech MCP955 to 120 volts, it would be the same quality and around the same flow.The fountain pump has variable flow control, and is much more heavy duty than any specifically designed computer water cooling pump.
There is a good reason why you don't see that. It is a waste of money to make solid copper blocks. The only part that needs to be copper is the part directly contacting the CPU. Above that, it is purely there to hold the cold plate (the copper piece) and water flow. That aside, a highly conductive material will not overcome a poor flow design, nor make the difference between an amateur (you) and a team of thermal/Hydro engineers that put in 100000+ hours design work into a component (Swiftech, Asetek, corsair, heatkiller, etc.).The block is solid copper, something you won't find from other blocks, and thus highly thermally conductive.
It is just an aluminum radiator. It will not perform that well, especially with a dated design. Though with your extremely high rate of water flow, I would look into getting a Transmission cooler for your rad. They are designed for that High flow rate. would also match the rest of your loop. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...on-cooler/_/N-25io?itemIdentifier=151847_0_0_ for example. (you can get one at the pick and pull for round abouts $15-20, just have it flushed before using it).Everyone somehow seems to be missing the fact that I have a radiator? It's a 2x120mm radiator that wasn't in that set of pictures. Yesterday I finally got it cleaned out and ready to go.
Take a look at the strait brackets. That will be far easier. Just weld/solder a stud in the center of the block to attach them somewhat securely (5/16 should be small enough, without loosing strength. Just weld it to the top, slide teh center hole of the brackets over the stud, and put a lock washer and nut on the end to hold it together.) should come to about ~$5 or so depending on tax. Use them and a decently long bolt to match the mount points on the board.The block is going to be attached with a mounting bracket that I am yet to make,
There is nothing wrong with ghetto. It just means that you tried. The resv. will look better if you can paint it a decently dark colour to mask teh water inside.and the reservoir is an acrylic, watertight jar with a removable lid. The waterblock will get its leaks fixed today, and then it will be polished, and perhaps painted.
You will likely match a $100 kit, if you are talking about a Coolermaster or Corsair kit. Otherwise, you are not going to outperform a true loop with this. It could be made to do so if you put more work and $$ into it. But expecting a bucket of parts that someone with limited engineering knowledge to outperform parts specifically built to do that job is unrealistic. Expect it to outperform a similarly priced air cooler, that is where you will shine.I paid less than 50 dollars for all of this, and I'm willing to bet that when it's 100% done, it will be on par with any $100+ water cooling kit, so I'd keep your pessimistic comments to yourselves until it's shown to not work well.
Might seem a bit of an odd question, but if Aluminum and Copper cause galvanic corrosion in loops, why don't they corrode when together on an air cooler? Is it just a chemical reaction between them and the water?Firstly, your copper block + aluminium rad will be causing corrosion.
Seems like I'm in the forum where everyone only thinks that decent cooling is possible by buying a H100i or a kraken x60, or by dropping hundreds of dollars on a custom loop... Sad world we live in.
The fountain pump has variable flow control, and is much more heavy duty than any specifically designed computer water cooling pump. The block is solid copper, something you won't find from other blocks, and thus highly thermally conductive.
Everyone somehow seems to be missing the fact that I have a radiator? It's a 2x120mm radiator that wasn't in that set of pictures. Yesterday I finally got it cleaned out and ready to go.
The block is going to be attached with a mounting bracket that I am yet to make, and the reservoir is an acrylic, watertight jar with a removable lid. The waterblock will get its leaks fixed today, and then it will be polished, and perhaps painted.
I paid less than 50 dollars for all of this, and I'm willing to bet that when it's 100% done, it will be on par with any $100+ water cooling kit, so I'd keep your pessimistic comments to yourselves until it's shown to not work well.
No. This will reduce performance. On the mating surface, the side of teh block that touches the CPU, do not use anything other than Alcohol and Sandpaper. For the sandpaper, start with 320 grit, and move through them to at least 2k grit. When you are done, wipe it down with alcohol (cleans the material removed off), and look. You should have a mirror surface. If you do not, then do it again, the right way.The block is going to be polished for a few hours, first with sandpaper, then steel wool, then polishing cream, etc.
Negative. You are using 2 separate ideas to make it work, and it will not. antifreeze will reduce Oxidation (aka rust corrosion) in a system. It will not stop or reduce galvanic corrosion. It is specifically used in automobiles to stop the oxidation that occurs from having an open loop cooling system, with non galvanically reactive materials. Generally Aluminum Rad with Aluminum Block/Heads or Copper Rad with Steel Heads and Block. Some systems have carbon fiber or other exotic materials in the system, but as they are nonmetalic, it does not affect it.I'm using antifreeze as opposed to water. Less corrosion, and it's specifically made for cooling metal.
This is not exactly right. Yes Copper is conductive. the whole block being copper will to a point aid cooling. But it will not in the least make up for sloppy design, and poor workmanship.The channels in the block are quarter inch. There are three long channels which run 3/4 of the length of the block, and 2 channels which run half the length. Since it is a solid block, the heat will disperse throughout the entire block, thus making the channels more effective.
I paid less than 50 dollars for all of this...
What I'm wondering is where the other $48.50 was spent...cause quite frankly looks like you went to a junkyard.
I'm all for DIY projects, but it looks like crap, won't work worth a damn, and is essentially a waste of time---
I mean..cmon you used a spice jar as a res...and .10c fittings from a hardware store--you're not even trying.
..
And FYI, I've seen some impressive DIY jobs and was blown away at the skill, creativity, and performance..
Yours looks like a bunch of crap you found in a dumpster and superglued together while drunk...
and I mean that in the semi-nicest way possible.
This ^^Why are you breaking down his project? It's pretty interesting starting from 0 with no money. Just wait until he's finished and shows his results.
You can give tips, comments,... But don't be rude, if he likes his project and he thinks it's good, then it is ok.
This ^^
It is also part of the learning curve.
Reminds me of the comments about Smile's cheap block not looking pretty.
All I want is the report on how good it works.
Run water over anything and the water will pickup pieces of said material. You are running an Aluminum Rad with a copper block. You are creating a galvanic cell between them."Galvanic corrosion (also called ' dissimilar metal corrosion' or wrongly 'electrolysis') refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte."
The metals are not touching each other, nor are they electrically charged. I don't see a problem with corrosion here.