New computer

mrjack

mrjack

VIP Member
Due to circumstances, being that my computer has probably decided the DIMM slots where unnecessary or mutinous and had to go :P. I'm going to test my pc with new memory sticks and if it doesn't work I'm gonna get a temporary rig. The pc would consist of the following parts:

AMD Athlon 64 3500+
1Gb DDR400 CL3 KIT (lifetime warranty)
MSI K8N Neo2
SATA HDD, not sure which one yet.

The MSI K8N Neo2 is there because of the AGP Club3D Radeon X800RX I still have. And I'm gonna use the Antec SmartPower 2.0 450W I already have.

Anyway, I was wondering are the SATAII backwards compatible? Cause I don't know too much about SATA yet, but I remember reading something about them being backwards compatible with the SATA/150 ports.

It's gonna cost about 300€, due to the high prices in Finland, but what do you guys think about it? And what HDD do you recommend for about 50-60€? Only from these companies, thank you, Multitronic and Digicomp. The links should lead to the English sites.
 
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Currently sitting on top of an AMD64 3500+ here is a Zalman cooler seeing a max temp of 43C when loaded with the model seen at ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Blue LED Light Cooling Fan with Heatsink - Retail at Newegg.com
The MSI line has some good models along with Asus. I am presently caught on deciding with another Asus or MSI board for a new build. What brand memory are you planning to run? I've had some good results just running 2gb of Kingston Value Ram here for loads like gaming, video captures/edits, and full load of media playback. As far as the difference between SATA and SATA II,

"Sunday, June 26, 2005
SATA II does not mean 3Gb/s

Fast WD, the first to introduce an 8 MB buffer, has advanced the caching algorithms of this new and improved Caviar family of hard drives, resulting in next-generation high performance performance that beats all competing 8 MB-cache drives. Features: 160 GB, 7,200 RPM, For Desktop Computer, Internal Enclosure, Serial ATA Interface, 3.5" x 1/3H.

Western Digital Caviar SE WD1600JS 160 GB Hard Drive

The term SATA II has grown in popularity as the moniker for the SATA 3Gb/s data transfer rate, causing great confusion with customers because, quite simply, it’s a misnomer.

The first step toward a better understanding of SATA is to know that SATA II is not the brand name for SATA’s 3Gb/s data transfer rate, but the name of the organization formed to author the SATA specifications. The group has since changed names, to the Serial ATA International Organization, or SATA-IO.

The 3Gb/s capability is just one of many defined by the former SATA II committee, but because it is among the most prominent features, 3Gb/s has become synonymous with SATA II. Hence, the source of the confusion." blog.ActiveServers - SATA II does not mean 3Gb/s
 
I'm still waiting to see if a friend finally gets a WD 200gb SATA drive partitioned and formatted on a board with an ide controller. When first tried there was no success in using the drive there as a stand alone primary. The SATA II drive being backward compatible is the same general comparison to whether an ATA133 drive is backward capable to an ATA100 or 66 board. Western Digital is certainly a preference for drives here both ide and SATA. Maxtor used to be total %**@ and still has problems at times when the Windows installer fails to detect the drive.

Maxtor has had to come out with some speicific drivers to correct this. Seagate on the other hand doesn't get the complaints it did at one time from certain techs I've known through the years. I hope you don't run into the same problem with that board where you have to grab a psu with a 24/4pin not 20/4pin plug connector. The SLI ready supplies will have the 24pin type. Otherwise you won't get the new board running. For an alternative that will work take a look at the TP II 480w model at Antec TRUEPOWERII TPII-480 480W Power Supply - Retail at Newegg.com
 
Well, I tested the new memory with my old mobo and it seems like the DIMM slots are busted so I will be getting the new computer. Here are the specs of my new computer:

AMD Athlon 64 3500+, around 90-95€ probably
MSI K8N Neo2 FX, about 60€
1Gb Kingston ValueRam DDR400 CL3 Kit
Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 160Gb SATA/3Gb 8Mb cache, ca. 60€
LG DVD DL burner
Club3D Radeon X800RX 256Mb GDDR3
Maxtor DiamondMax 9+ 80Gb UltraAta/133
Antec SmartPower 2.0 450W

The good thing about the MSI mobos is the D-Bracket which comes standard with most of 'em, so you have diagnostic LEDs on which you can see what's wrong with the computer if it won't start or work properly.

And about the SATAII thing, usually people immediately understand it's the SATA/3Gb you're referring to when you say SATAII.
 
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StrangleHold said:
Anyway, I was wondering are the SATAII backwards compatible?

If your saying SATA 3gb. then yes it is!
Click to expand...
Are you talking to yourself? :P

And about the SATAII thing, usually people immediately understand it's the SATA/3Gb you're referring to when you say SATAII.
Click to expand...
They are the same thing for all intents and purposes
 
After looking at the specifications on different brands of boards the conclusion of MSI being the brand looked into if not going with another Asus model on a new build. When looking at Abit, DFI, Gigabyte, and several others the thing that keeps standing out is Asus and MSI always seeming to be one step ahead of the other makes. While Asus and MSI were seeing 400mhz fsbs the others were still 333mhz. On newer models Asus and MSI often see 3 instead of 2 pci slots on their PCI-Express model boards. You should see a good board there. I preferred a model with the nForce 4 chipset however.

The 2gb of Kingston Value Ram have worked here quite well. Just be sure the Antec model supply has the 24/4pin connector. When a board quit lately I ran into that with the replacement. The TP II 430w model had 20/4 not 24/4! Had to run out and buy locally there.
 
I'm still trying to build up the self-confidence to install the CPU and HSF myself, I'm mostly worried about applying the right amount of thermal paste and putting on the HSF. Cause I'm usually a bit "too" careful when it comes to electronics, cause I don't want to break anything.

And I noticed that the MSI K8N Neo2 FX has a FSB of 800 so the HT would be 1600, not 2000 like it usually is nowadays. Will this cause a big hit in performance?

And another concerne is that I'm not sure what stepping the CPU is, E6 or E3. Cause the K8N Neo2 FX only supports the E6 CPU's after a BIOS update, but how am I going to update the BIOS if the mobo doesn't support the CPU and start?
 
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mrjack said:
Due to circumstances, being that my computer has probably decided the DIMM slots where unnecessary or mutinous and had to go :P. I'm going to test my pc with new memory sticks and if it doesn't work I'm gonna get a temporary rig. The pc would consist of the following parts:

AMD Athlon 64 3500+
1Gb DDR400 CL3 KIT (lifetime warranty)
MSI K8N Neo2
SATA HDD, not sure which one yet.

The MSI K8N Neo2 is there because of the AGP Club3D Radeon X800RX I still have. And I'm gonna use the Antec SmartPower 2.0 450W I already have.

Anyway, I was wondering are the SATAII backwards compatible? Cause I don't know too much about SATA yet, but I remember reading something about them being backwards compatible with the SATA/150 ports.

It's gonna cost about 300€, due to the high prices in Finland, but what do you guys think about it? And what HDD do you recommend for about 50-60€? Only from these companies, thank you, Multitronic and Digicomp. The links should lead to the English sites.
Click to expand...

Quote:
Originally Posted by StrangleHold
Anyway, I was wondering are the SATAII backwards compatible?

If your saying SATA 3gb. then yes it is!

Are you talking to yourself? :P

No did you even read the post!
 
Your post would make a lot more sence if you would quote properly. Same goes for your previous one, but Bobo's just yanking your chain. I'm sure he understands what you were saying in your previous post.
 
Regarding installing a cpu and HSF those go on easy enough. Make you get a tube of Artic Silver 5 and prep the surfaces of the top of the cpu and bottom of sink with some denatured alcohol or very close to insure there is nothing on those surfaces. On a new cpu and HSF you shouldn't see anything to worry about cleaning off.

Once you drop the cpu into the one way insertion socket and bring down the lever you apply a glob about the size of a pea or roughly a 5/16" area sees a large drop. You don't need 1/2 a tube since this will spread evenly across the newer models cpus. The older Socket A and others saw a rise where the compound would kind of separate around it rather then keeping covered at times. The Antec thermal compound tried here recently with a higher temp tolerance would stay to slippery instead of firming up after a few days of use. Once the AS5 went on the same cpu cooler due to the ceramic mix with silver compound things firmed up a little and temps dropped down far lower. The actual gap between hsf and the top of the cpu should be about the thickness of a piece of aluminum foil if that. Monitor the temps for a few days after to make the right amount was applied.
 
The thing is that AS5 costs 7,90€ which is about 10$ for 3.5grams, plus I have to pay for shipping. :D So I would like to get some AS5 but the cost is insane.

EDIT:

Just noticed I might be able to get it for the price of the product itself, no shipping at all. I'll have to contact the shop.

Update:
I won't be able to get a Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 160Gb SATAII harddrive unless I wait until August 7th, so I'll be getting a Western Digital Caviar SE 160Gb SATAII instead.

And what should I use to spread out the AS5? Cause I might be able to find some sort of outdated credit card or something like that but I'm not sure. What else can I use? And where can you usually get some 99% isopropyl alcohol?
 
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The only time you need anything like alcohol would be for removing any remaining compound on a cpu when changing the stock HSF to a 3rd cooler often to get those lower temps or if something does get on either surface. If both are right out of the box you shouldn't need anything but AS5. When applying AS5 you don't want to spread it around like a paint brush with paint but rather put a good sized drop in the center of the sink or cpu and stir it a little in case there is some separation. Once you set the HSF down inplace evenly the compound will spread itself. After you may want to leave everything sitt for a few hours at least for some bonding to take place.

It will still take a few weeks for any compound to set in. But you don't want to rush into running the system immediately to see cpu temps soar. I did that here to test the overheat protection on the new board. But that was under monitored circumstances to power down right away if needed. The OH protection did that fast enough when the initial temp saw 60C! Some will adivise some 4hrs. of wait time and running it for only a few hours on the first day. When it starts bonding well you will see the temps start to drop down to normal. To stir a little when appying the AS5 I simply use the tip of the tube while applying it to save time there. Some non conductive item like a tea or coffee stirrer could work. You won't need a putty knife for this.
 
Some websites advise to apply a thin layer all over the core or IHS and then put on the HSF while some say you should do it the way you mentioned.

And I've read it's good to have the computer running for a few hours and then turning it off and turning it on after a while. So that the AS5 gets a chance to warm up, cool and then warm up again.
 
As I mentioned before the recommendation is to apply a good sized drop about the size of small pea or you could say blueberry or something in that size range to use as a reference. The label on the AS5 tube clearly advises this along with applying it in a stirring motion to insure being mixed around in case of separation of ingredients. Depending on cpu type you can apply AS5 to either the sink or the cpu to see the same result. Once the compound is spread and firms up it will form a thin wafer bond for transfering heat from the cpu to the HSF.

The one thing tried here was to run the system until the cpu heated up below max to test the overheat protection on the board. But you would want to run it briefly due to the heat factor and then shut it down for a few hours to avoid damaging the cpu. Once the process there has been repeated a few times daily even you will see the temps drop into the normal range. It still takes a few weeks to see the full bonding take place however. The newer line of cpus make life easier by not seeing the chip raised in the center where the thermal compund used can separate leaving the top of the chip exposed. The Socket 939 models are essentially a flat topped square cover where the thermal compound used will spread evenly with greater ease.
 
I don't think I'll be getting AS5 just yet, as I the shop that has it charges 6,40€ for the shipping. I'll get it and an aftermarket HSF if I decide I need 'em.
 
This is so freaking unfair! The 20-pin connector is in the strangest place, behind the 5.25" bay thingy and the +12V connector is on the other end of the motherboard! And now I don't know where to put the PSU because of the connectors that I mentioned before.

Update:

I got it to work outside of the case and I'm probably gonna get a new case as everything is so messy and it's a tight fit to get everything in the current one. Any suggestions on a good case? Doesn't have to be pretty, as long as it's got quite a bit of space and preferrably a place to put a 120mm fan as I already have a 120mm fan. And I'd like a case without a PSU as I already have a PSU and don't want another one.
 
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mrjack said:
I don't think I'll be getting AS5 just yet, as I the shop that has it charges 6,40€ for the shipping. I'll get it and an aftermarket HSF if I decide I need 'em.
Click to expand...

Artic Silver 5 is a top rate thermal compound when compared to others which I have done here on many occasions. You don't have to apply a large amount to have it spread evenly in order to form a good layer between the cpu and sink. It's an easy task there. As far as cases you and I both will be looking for a better case for air flow with 120mm fans. The size of an atx case will still be about the same unless you are somehow running an AT type case there where things are too cramped. You can choose all kinds of cases for less then $50-US these days without a supply. In fact you wouldn't want a supply included unless it's something like an Antec or Enermax case since they usually put some cheap piece of whatever in there. You will still have to shop around at the vendors you order from to get a new one. But I can add a links here to give you some ideas.
http://www.directron.com/case40to49.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?N=2010090007+4025+1054808287&Submit=ENE&SubCategory=7 (Note: for the price toss the included supply here)
http://www.xoxide.com/allcases.html
http://www.factorydirect.ca/catalog/category_list.php?cat=0200
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556028727.html
 
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