Problem, Help!

willy200

New Member
Hi Peoples.
I have had this pc for ages now and only my daughter uses it.
The other day, I decided to move the pc to another part of the house.
When it came to plug it back in the power supply lead to the tower would not work. (monitor etc. was working but no power to the tower)
tried alternate power leads and they were shorting out with a cracking sound coming from the towers power port.
any answers tohow this can be fixed without buying a new power source??
 
This happened to me once. Check to see if you have any vents or slits in the power supply. If you find a way of looking into the power supply, without opening it, to hold back from voiding your waranty, try to see if there is a "spiderwebby" white gloss inside. One of my capasitors blew up and it made a crackling sound. If this is the case you will need a new power supply. It could however be a fuse in the power supply. If you don't feel compforitable doing it yourself, or just dont want to void your waranty, take it to a local pc shop and have them take a look at it. If its a fuse, its an easy fix, i dont even know how much they go for, probably less than 5 bucks.....
 
tried alternate power leads and they were shorting out with a cracking sound coming from the towers power port.
any answers tohow this can be fixed without buying a new power source??
So whats dead? The power cable, the power supply or the wall?
 
Praetor said:
So whats dead? The power cable, the power supply or the wall?

just the power supply in the computer is a bit cream crackered. all sockets working and the moitor is working. trust me, the window is looking quite tasty if it doesnt get fixed. 30 footdrop should do the trick. lol
 
In a nutshell i'd recomend buying a new P/S, as it should only cost about $40 for mid quality one, and is much prefered than having to iron out problems with your system after a power loss the the system mid document saving etc, due to an unreliable P/S.

Normaly you should only get sparks while pluging in the lead Only if their is a compleate circuit for the power to flow through... I.e the P/S switch is still turned on.
If your switch is in the Off position it may still happen but isn't as likely.

Check that the Voltage selection switch hasn't accidently been moved to the 110V setting. If it has, then you've prob only blown fuse on that voltage side, and can still switch back to 220V/240V setting.

If the fuse has gone on the 220V rail, there are two different ways it is usualy mounted. 1 Both ends are soldered to the PCB(is very difficult to fit a new one without melting the fuse cap's glue first). 2 PCB Fuse mounts(very easy to replace). A new fuse will cost about $1.50 from Dick Smith, and is usualy rated at about 6.25A 250V Quick Blow.

There could be numerous things wrong with the P/S, so the window may be a good idea... at least you'll see what its made of!!!
 
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