Froztblade, sorry for this longuer, however there is a couple of things that need to be explained I think. Feel free to skip to bottom, because most of this is politely directed at Ganzey.
EDIT:to bigfella-- you say it only has 18 amps, but it has two rails, 18 amps on EACH. it is def. enough power for that setup
yet...
well you sir, are the who is wrong... you dont understand how dual rail power supplies work.
Ganzey, firstly
that isn’t a true multi rail PSU!
It is a single rail PSU, with the various rails accomplished by splitting a single 12V output wiring (electrics) via DC to DC circuitry (electronics rather than 2 transformers) to provide 2 x 18A 12V rails limited by 240VAC safety requirements. This is in essence, the complete marketing bollocks of multi-rail PSUs for the PC consumer market. Do you honestly think you will get a true multi-rail PSU for $40? Really? The answer is no. This is why all the quality PSU manufacturers have gone back to single rail PSUs, except in the true multi rail PSUs such as the excellent Corsair 1000W which has 2 x 500W Corsair PSUs slung together - (i.e 2 x AC\DC transformers). You need to read the article in my sig Multi/Single Rail.
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psumultirail/multirails.html
Regardless, in this type of consumer PC PSU,
you cannot add up the 12V rails and total the amperage as you have promoted earlier unless it has EPS 2.92 (http://www.enermax.cn/enermax_pdf/EPS12V Spec2_92.pdf certification). The Coolermaster doesn't. You also need to read the ATX design standard that apply to this PSU and read how it specifies 12V +2 rail is handled. You should also realise that if you are running that PSU 12V +1 rail at a constant 88% load (
according to your calculation of there being only <2A left out of 18) that a PSU with around >70% rated efficiency (higher in reality), wouldn't need too much pressure (e.g. via summer temperatures), to overload and shit itself. You need to realise that the Coolermaster PSU is complete crap. But as expected for $40.
"This power supply failed to deliver 460 W. The funny thing was that respecting the maximum combined power for the two +12 V rails as printed on the unit’s label (test five) the power supply wouldn’t turn on, as its over power protection entered in action, but pulling 460 W not respecting this information (test six) it turned on, but ripple was thru (sic) the roof (220 mV)." http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/550/7
According to the same reputable review, the
actual maximum wattage output that PSU can supply is 435.8W. That is the whole PSU, not the 12V rail and what is worse, that PSU is only ever designed to provide 67% of the total power to the 12V rail (312W out of 460W). That means on average, based on the maximum measured output of 435.8W (above), 67% of that value is the most that PSU can direct to the 12V rail. Again, as it is circuitry controlled DC to DC conversion for 2 x 12V rails, the theoretical total of 12V + 1 is just over 12A. Now as you can see, this PSU is really not to be recommended by anyone with professional knowledge as it is very unlikely provide the required power.
So now we have a PSU that can only deliver ~436W in total - suddenly (as if it weren't before) that PSU is reaching closer and closer to its max, temperatures rise due to low efficiency and no active PFC, cheap components go out of tolerance and then it goes pop. Yeah it might work for a while (like cheap oil will in a car), but you risk premature failure, heat issues and catastrophic loss. The Coolermaster doesn't even have PFC. Absolutely not worth it when you are talking about the difference of less than $30 for the Corsair 450W which delivers nearly double the power via a quality build.
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16817139003 Furthermore, even if you have to outright purchase the Corsair for 60 quid, completely worth it.
"During all tests this power supply achieved ripple and noise levels within specs, but other good mainstream power supplies we’ve reviewed like Antec EarthWatts 500 W and Corsair VX450W achieved far better values"
Either way, the Coolermaster PSU is not recommended as it is poor quality with insufficient 12V rail amperage for anyone who wants to aviod the risk of serious damage, higher power bills and other power issues - for less than $30.
well you sir, are the who is wrong(and know nothing about cars).
I wouldn't put cheap oil in my GC8 STi, and it is the same with cheap PSU's. False economics.
Anyway, the OP is requesting some sound advice, I believe I have given that. If Ganzey or anyone else wants to discuss the merits of this PSU, I am happy to do so, but lets do it via PM. The PSU needs replacing either way IMO.
Froztblade, how are you going with your deliberations?
