Tips on cable management?

Drenlin

Active Member
So I decided to get my cable management out of the way while I'm waiting to order the rest of my parts. I used an mATX placeholder for the mobo , but everything else is how it'll be in the final product.

I'm VERY happy with the case (NZXT M59), considering I paid $30 for it, but I can't quite get my wiring perfected. Here's what it looks like now, with the placeholders:

apologies for crappy phone pics
DSC00968.jpg

DSC00969.jpg

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My problem is that there's not enough room behind the mobo tray...enough for a bundle of cables, and nothing else. I actually have to tuck the PCIe and 4-pin CPU connectors (yellow cables) back through the hole, or the side won't go on. :( Why Antec chose to leave both the 4 and 8 pin CPU cables, the floppy connector, and the 6+2 PCIe permanently attached is beyond me...

Anyway. Since that space is taken up, I don't really have a lot of room to put the Molex cables anywhere, so I had to stuff them under the lower hard drive, thus making them visible. I can't really figure out where else to put them, because I have to be able to connect the hard drive, the front LED, and the side fan to it.

The side fan is also a related problem...I can't figure out how to hide that wire and still be able to open the case properly. Both of the extra headers on my mobo will already be used by the rear fan and the front PWM fan I added, and I'd rather not hook itt o those anyway...How do you guys do it? I've seen several pics of cases were that wire is completely out of sight..

Problem #2 is the PATA cable. It's only there for a few months, until I get a proper hard drive, but still...it's damned ugly, and you can see it all twisted at the back of the HDD bays. Wtf do I do with that thing?

The other, minor issue is that the audio cable for the front jacks (it was in the 5.25" bays in those pics) has to run to the left side of the mobo I'm getting, and isn't really long enough to run behind the tray anywhere...I can't see a way to hide it. Seems like it would look odd just hanging there, though thankfully it's black. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any halps! :)
 
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jevery

Active Member
You've obviously put some time into getting the cables out of sight and I don't think there's much more to be done with that build. You could get rid of the ribbon cable with a Round IDE Cable, though the round ones can be more difficult to hide than the flat ones. I would also suggest switching to a modular power supply for your next build. :)
 

danthrax

Member
So if I'm reading the OP right, you currently are UNable to get the back of the case to go on because of the large jumble of cables?
 

Drenlin

Active Member
I can get it on...I just have to push those plugs back through the hole. At least they're still hidden :/

So that's as good as it's going to get, you think? I guess I figured it'd be a bit cleaner, since I don't have a GPU that requires extra power and my PSU is at least partially modular...ah well. Thanks guys :)

BTW, Nev and Linkin, nice job on those. :good:
 

FuryRosewood

Active Member
oh trust me it isnt, it can make a big diff espically when it comes to airflow, getting the big annoying cables out of the way that blocks air from moving easily through the case can improve temps significantly, and makes cleaning the case easier
 

Nightrain

New Member
You could dye all your cables black, as an alternative to sleeving them. Costs $2 in RIT dye at Walmart or similar stores / fabric stores, doesn't rub off, and permanently bonds to them at a molecular level. Just takes some of your time to do it.

My file server / HTPC Before:
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After:
img2248i.jpg


img2246k.jpg


The Intel heatsink was only temporary, and was removed shortly thereafter, and is why I just wrapped the cable in electrical tape for the pic instead of taking the time to dye it.
 

Twist86

Active Member
I am curious are there any cases with a large section behind the motherboard for cable management? I find the actual process easy (drilling holes/running cables etc) but what I find more horrible then anything else is putting the back panel back on and adding stress to the cables.

Then again I aim for getting the cables out of the airflow not to the extent you guys have done it.


BTW Nightrain what case is that?
 

Turbo10

Active Member
You could dye all your cables black, as an alternative to sleeving them. Costs $2 in RIT dye at Walmart or similar stores / fabric stores, doesn't rub off, and permanently bonds to them at a molecular level. Just takes some of your time to do it.

The Intel heatsink was only temporary, and was removed shortly thereafter, and is why I just wrapped the cable in electrical tape for the pic instead of taking the time to dye it.

Hmm thats a pretty good idea, would say black spray paint work too rather than dying it?
 

Twist86

Active Member
I was just curious more then anything Fury but thanks for IDing it :) I thought about buying the 1200 and giving my 900 away but sadly I couldn't pull the trigger @ $125. I got lazy didn't want to rehook my entire system!
 

FuryRosewood

Active Member
honestly its not a big step from the 900, so i would not bother, plus with the length of my 8 pin power cable...it just does not reach to the top of the motherboard without an extension...the 1200 is just too goddamn tall...if the 900 is still cooling..as the old addage goes: 'if its not broke, dont fix it.'

lol just realized what gpu he has in it...its a asus 8400 or 9400...passive sink -actually loved that heatsink...
 
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Nightrain

New Member
Yes, it is an Antec P180 mini, and an Asus 8400GS. Sometimes I swap the 8400 out for an 8800GTS if I feel like gaming on the HTPC, but the 8400 can do hardware accel for videos, so I tend to use that.

I wouldn't use spray paint on the cables. It will flake off eventually, and would make them stiffer I would assume. Getting an even coating on all sides would be difficult as well.

The dye process is actually really easy. You don't have to take the connectors off or anything. Just bring a pot of water with the dye to a boil then turn the temp down so it is just under simmering temperature. Put the PSU section in a few plastic bags to keep moisture away (this isn't needed if you have modular cables, just toss them in). Hold the PSU above the pan with all the cables in as far as you want them dyed. Leave them in the dye for 10-15 minutes, moving them around frequently. You may need to go longer depending on how black you want them. Take it out when they are done and rinse thoroughly. Let dry for at least 24 hours. All the moisture must be gone before using.

I take no responsibility for anyone's actions. My psu has been running fine on 24/7 for 6+ months without issue after this, but your mileage may very if you screw things up, drop the psu in the pot, etc. Also, it may not make a difference but I don't use the pot I dyed in for cooking again.
 

bomberboysk

Active Member
http://www.cableorganizer.com

Best place for cheap sleeving supplies IMO, i'd recommend sleeving that IDE/FDD(cant tell which from the picture) cable you have there, Its not difficult. You make a slit between the two wires in the cable every 4 wires, then make it look basically like a thing of spaghetti. Next,you get 3/8" PET sleeving and stretch it over(you put the IDE connector sideways so it can be slipped over it as well as the cables). Then, use 1/2" 3:1 or 4:1 heatshrink and use that on the ends.

Otherwise, cable management in that is pretty good;)
 
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