i wanna do a small mod on my computer, while i'm fixing windows

lovely?

lovely?

Active Member
ok my computer case is metalic gray, and i think it would look awsome in matte black i want to paint the outside only, cause black would contrast my blue led's too much. if anyone could point me to what type of paint, or primers, technique (i've only used spraypaint foor school projects)
thx and my next post will have pics
 
The first thing you will need is a well ventilated area to even consider this. You will want it clean and dry with nothing nearby that could be ruined with paint stains. That's the work area!

2) pc cases like other metal cabinets are often emersed in vats by hanging each piece on hooks and lowering them in. The type of paint is usually an enamel made to cling to metal surfaces. Some use spray painting boothes where the individual parts are turned on a mount that will turn a full 360 degrees. You want a type that will used often where heat is present to avoid any hazard there.

Anodizing where an object is placed into a vat with electrical current being applied is one method that insures a thorough and even coat. But that will cost big time for that method! Many will grab a can of autobody touchup paint while I tend to be hesitant there. You can never get to come out even enough. Too bad that model case didn't come in black already. It would already have the pro paint job done for you.
 
hmm does it matter that its only reaching 50 degrees in the afternoon right now? i was hoping that i can just wait a little longer for it to dry
 
You will want the optimum environment to see the best results. That means a stable temperature range. Outside where? exposure to weather changes wouldn't see the best results. Besides moisture from weather changes you would also have the wind factor blowing dirt and debris around. You don't want to tree leaves or something else stuck to your new paint job :eek: ! while still needing adequate ventilation for improved drying time and reduction of paint fumes.
 
I recommend doing it in your garage. Leave your garage door cracked open, but not too much, just enough to get some ventilation. If you have a space heater, use that in your garage to get the temperature up some. Just make sure you use it after you spray paint so you don't light the fumes :eek:
When sanding off your old coat of paint, two things:
Don't use an electric sander, and use about 500-700 grit sand paper. Then when you sand down your new coats, use about 1000-1500 grit sand paper, and on your final coat use a 2000 grit sand paper.
 
Motoxrdude said:
Don't use an electric sander, and use about 500-700 grit sand paper. Then when you sand down your new coats, use about 1000-1500 grit sand paper, and on your final coat use a 2000 grit sand paper.
Click to expand...
The highest grit sandpaper I've seen anywhere is 220....I don't think we're talking the same units
 
Bobo said:
The highest grit sandpaper I've seen anywhere is 220....I don't think we're talking the same units
Click to expand...
OK. Well, you aren't thinking of grit then. Every hardware store has atleast 1000 grit sandpaper, so i dont know what you are thinking of.
 
Emery paper not sandpaper and a solvent. You don't want to "dig into" the surface of the material when going to clean the original enamel off. The metal used for cases is never heat treated for hardening. If it was hardened you would simply sand blast one enamel off to preparee for the new one.
 
Have to? You don't "have to" but will certainly "want to" in order to avoid seeing the new paint/enamel start flaking off! Don't forget that even the outside of the case can see above room temperatures when a system is running. One place to actually get some solid advice is from those who are good with autobody work since autos and trucks alike are exposed to the elements as well as varying temperatures.

Take a look at the paint under the hood of a car sometime to see how heat effects a paint job there! Gets hot doesn't it?! A case won't see the same types of environments to that degree. But the methods for insuring favored results can be applied there. Many times when painting over something it never looks right afterwards. Stripping it down to a primer is something to consider for this.
 
oh and its also textured. do i have to sand that off for a flat surface, or will primer do fine?

(i'm proficient enough with computers, i dunno all the painting techniques though)
 
It's going to be touchy no matter how you go about this since you may want to keep the original grey color intact on the insides of the design there. The grey remaining would seem to highlight the style of the openings better. But it will also be awkward trying to remove the paint right where the two surfaces meet(outside surface - thickness of side cover).

You will have to be able to go over the edges very lightly like an artist. Once you start getting through the top layers of the grey enamel on the outer surfaces back off and switch to a super fine emery type paper. That's where something real fine for an even finish is needed.

Most likely you won't see a primer like you would on an auto since that is generally premixed with the type of enamel used commercially. They paint in one step not two in manufacturing. The one thing to see what it will take to see the best results would be a little pratice first on an old beater case lying that no one will ever use again. Then you could see how fine the sand paper or emery cloth will need to be. You want to keep it even all the way across the outside surfaces.

When ready for the enamel or paint to be most likely sprayed on having the inner sides masked over would tape will reduce the "runs" if any from dripping on the inner sides. For the most part you will want to see the 45 degree meeting of both colors at the outer edge of the openings. Any excess there just inside will probably flake right off if you are careful. Sanding inside the grooves would more likely result in damage due to uneven edges there.
 
I would just take 500-800 grit sand paper, and just "ruff" up the paint. Then primer, wait a day, sand with 1000 grit (don't sand the primer off, just smooth it out). Repeat.
Spray on the color you want, wait two days, sand with 1500 grit (just smooth it out again). Repeat 2x. Then the last time you spray paint it, wait 2 days, and sand with 2000 grit sand paper. Then spray gloss (if you want to).
 
The problem with sanding instead of utilizing something like an enamel remover is that the actual coating of the original is very thin. You can easily scratch the paint right off! If anything besides softening up the original grey on it now you would use a "super fine".

Besides the ease of seeing a few scratches if you bump a case against something when moving it the preformed metal is not tempered! It will also scratch easy. Only that will leave permanent marks. Tread lightly when going to sand it. In other words don't bear down on it hard when sanding. The option to use an enamel remover would strip it down to the bare metal. That will entail the additional fumes! But use that if necessary to avoid marking up the case if you run into problems.

Gently abrasing the paint may get you by but...? you could also end up going to metal in some spots. The expression of being an artist with the gifted hand seems to apply to see good results. That's why the recommend for first trying the idea on an old beater case to get the "feel" for the work to see what steps will see best results. It's not complicated but... patience and some tin can even to practice on will help.
 
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