A question about compatibility?

[LambentTyto]

I've been reading all the specs on each part I've chosen for my rig to make sure they're compatible, and everything is as far as I can tell, except I'm having a little trouble double checking the physical compatibilities between my chosen video card and motherboard and RAM.

If someone could have a second look, I'd appreciate it.

Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128651

Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121802

RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231689

I guess the reason for this is this is because the motherboard says what PCU socket type is compatible, but doesn't say anything about the GPU.

Also, my RAM speed is DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) and the motherboard says Memory Standard DDR3 2000(OC)/1866/1600/1333/1066.

My RAM's speed seems to be higher, but I can't be sure because I barely know what I'm doing.

Anyways, if you could have a look and tell me why that is, that would be great.

One last thing. I noticed the video card I've chosen only has HDMI and DVI inputs. I won't use DVI, but I might not be able to afford an HDMI compatible monitor, so my question is: Would a VGA to HDMI male converter work? Will I lose much resolution?

Thanks

 

[PCunicorn]

Why won't you use DVI? It would be stupid to use a VGA to HDMI when you have DVI. DVI is better then VGA, worse then HDMI. For GPU compatibility, yes. The GPU is PCIe, and notice how your motherboard says it has 2 PCIe slots (make sure to use the top one though).

 

[Agent Smith]

Why are you going with 2133 RAM when the MOBO specifically states that it can't?

 

[spirit]

Why do you keep making new threads? Can't you just ask all of your questions in one thread?

The board looks like it will only support up to 2000MHz (OC'ed), so you need to find some slower RAM since 2133MHz may or may not work. Look at 1600MHz or 1866. 1866 is plenty quick enough and 1600 is a good speed.

The video card will be fine.

 

[LambentTyto]

Why won't you use DVI? It would be stupid to use a VGA to HDMI when you have DVI. DVI is better then VGA, worse then HDMI. For GPU compatibility, yes. The GPU is PCIe, and notice how your motherboard says it has 2 PCIe slots (make sure to use the top one though).

Yeah, but what confused be was that the motherboard says PCI Express 2.0 and the video card is 3.0. Does that not make a difference?

 

[LambentTyto]

Why do you keep making new threads? Can't you just ask all of your questions in one thread?

The board looks like it will only support up to 2000MHz (OC'ed), so you need to find some slower RAM since 2133MHz may or may not work. Look at 1600MHz or 1866. 1866 is plenty quick enough and 1600 is a good speed.

The video card will be fine.

Sorry, I'll stop making threads. I just figured a new subject would need a new thread.

 

[PCunicorn]

Yeah, but what confused be was that the motherboard says PCI Express 2.0 and the video card is 3.0. Does that not make a difference?

Nope. PCIe 3 is backwards compatible with PCIe 2. Don't worry about 2133 MHz RAM, it's fine. Agent Smith doesn't know what he's talking about. The motherboard will just downclock it to it's max speed, but of course, if the 2133 Mhz RAM is more, then don't get it. Get the cheapest max speed RAM for that board by Corsair or Kingston or G.Skill.

 

[spirit]

See if there is another board in your budget which will support 2133MHz (or faster) RAM. As I said though, 1866 is fast enough.

 

[StrangleHold]

Don't know why gigabyte does that. But the board supports and has multipliers up to DDR3 2400.

 

[LambentTyto]

What do you guys think about this gaming laptop compared to my rig?

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152495

 

[spirit]

It's a great laptop I'm sure, but for gaming, your desktop should be much better.

 

[LambentTyto]

It's a great laptop I'm sure, but for gaming, your desktop should be much better.

Yeah, I know. But I'm concerned about assembling the thing. I read that if even the slightest crackle of static electricity happens while you're putting the rig together, some of the chips will fry. I don't have the cash to pay someone else to put it together.

And then there's the possibility that some of the chips could be faulty or even damaged during shipping.

My $850 budget is all I have and if I need to replace parts, I'll have to wait until I get the money. Not really willing to downgrade to save. I suppose it's possible to buy some of the parts used though.

 

[spirit]

Ah comon. You don't need to be too nervous about static electricity. Most components are quite tough these days with regards to that. It's not like older hardware if you just touch it it dies, things are built better now.

And besides, it's so easy to ground yourself. Did I not explain how to do it? Basically install the PSU into a case, then plug it into power but don't turn it turn, touch one of the screws which is holding the PSU and you are done.

I think frankly if you want the best gaming performance you'd be stupid to buy the laptop over the desktop.

Sometimes things are faulty and sometimes things get broken in the post. What's not to say that your laptop is not going to shop with bad RAM or a bad hard drive, or get broken or lost in the post? I've had pre-built systems ship with faulty motherboards and the whole thing has to be sent back rather than just the bad board.

 

[PCunicorn]

Yeah, I know. But I'm concerned about assembling the thing. I read that if even the slightest crackle of static electricity happens while you're putting the rig together, some of the chips will fry. I don't have the cash to pay someone else to put it together.

And then there's the possibility that some of the chips could be faulty or even damaged during shipping.

My $850 budget is all I have and if I need to replace parts, I'll have to wait until I get the money. Not really willing to downgrade to save. I suppose it's possible to buy some of the parts used though.

That's a load of bull. Components can handle a bit of static electricity, plus just get a wristband if you are that worried.

Come on, man. Newegg will replace them if they get damaged during shipping. Plus, a Laptop could be the same way.

^

 

[LambentTyto]

Ah comon. You don't need to be too nervous about static electricity. Most components are quite tough these days with regards to that. It's not like older hardware if you just touch it it dies, things are built better now.

And besides, it's so easy to ground yourself. Did I not explain how to do it? Basically install the PSU into a case, then plug it into power but don't turn it turn, touch one of the screws which is holding the PSU and you are done.

I think frankly if you want the best gaming performance you'd be stupid to buy the laptop over the desktop.

Sometimes things are faulty and sometimes things get broken in the post. What's not to say that your laptop is not going to shop with bad RAM or a bad hard drive, or get broken or lost in the post? I've had pre-built systems ship with faulty motherboards and the whole thing has to be sent back rather than just the bad board.

Without the power on, but stilled plugged in, you want me to touch a metal screw? That's still kind of scary. So after touching this screw that's holding the PSU in the case, would keep the thing plugged in while I assemble everything, or would I be able to unplug it?

Another thing, and this is probably wrong. My brother looked into building his own PC about ten years ago, and he says that if the motherboard is touching any part of the metal case, it'll short out a bunch of parts. But I think he's got that confused with static shock, because I was watching a video on youtube last night and the dude installed his motherboard right onto the metal wall of his case.

 

[LambentTyto]

That's a load of bull. Components can handle a bit of static electricity, plus just get a wristband if you are that worried.

Come on, man. Newegg will replace them if they get damaged during shipping. Plus, a Laptop could be the same way.

^

The problem with shipping and returning things is that I live in Ecuador. I'll be shipping the things to a person coming down, and he'll be bringing them to the country. If the parts are bad and I have him take them back to the states so he can ship them back to newegg or the manufacturer, I won't be able to get the parts back down here without shipping them, and if I did that they'd have to come through customs and there's a s**tload of import tax on that sort of stuff.

 

[PCunicorn]

Lol. Not true. Plus, I don't know if you know this but 10 years is a LONG time n computer components. Components can handle more ESD now then years ago, which are how old the articles you have probably been reading. Buddy, look. Me and spirit have built computers for several years (spirit longer then me), and we know what we are talking about. A components will not sure out because it's touching metal. If you are worried about static electricity, get a ESD wristband, it will keep you grounded, and don't build on the carpet. We are putting our time into helping you, and looked into components to get you a build. You are putting all that to waste, because, what? You are afraid that 10 years ago components would get killed if they touch metal?


Well, that would be a problem. But it's a 1 in 300 chance you will get a dead part. Or more, 1 in 1000. Something crazy.

 

[spirit]

Without the power on, but stilled plugged in, you want me to touch a metal screw? That's still kind of scary. So after touching this screw that's holding the PSU in the case, would keep the thing plugged in while I assemble everything, or would I be able to unplug it?

It's not scary at all. Even if the power supply is turned on at the back, which it doesn't need to be. I've been doing this for years.

You would be able to unplug it, but if the power supply is turned off at the back (there is a switch), then there isn't a need. Even if you turn the power off at the mains, earth is still active so it will still ground you.

If you are worried about ESD, get yourself a wristband like suggested above. That way, you remain grounded all the time. But, you would need to keep the power supply plugged in.

Another thing, and this is probably wrong. My brother looked into building his own PC about ten years ago, and he says that if the motherboard is touching any part of the metal case, it'll short out a bunch of parts. But I think he's got that confused with static shock, because I was watching a video on youtube last night and the dude installed his motherboard right onto the metal wall of his case.

Yes, this is true in most cases. But, your case will come with some brass standoffs which you screw into the case. These raise your motherboard off the side of the case, thus preventing it from shorting. They're not difficult to install, you just need to make sure you install the correct number in the correct places. It's easy enough.

The problem with shipping and returning things is that I live in Ecuador. I'll be shipping the things to a person coming down, and he'll be bringing them to the country. If the parts are bad and I have him take them back to the states so he can ship them back to newegg or the manufacturer, I won't be able to get the parts back down here without shipping them, and if I did that they'd have to come through customs and there's a s**tload of import tax on that sort of stuff.

The chances of you getting bad parts are relatively slim, to say the least.

You could buy that laptop and something could be wrong with it, and you'd have to go through all that trouble to send it back.

So really, you aren't really 'safer' by buying the laptop in regards to this, since that *could* have bad hardware too.

I'm not saying 'don't get the laptop', all I am trying to say is that worrying ESD and sending parts back are not good reasons to buy the laptop over the desktop. As I've already said, if you want the best performance and most upgradability, you should buy the desktop. With a laptop, you are kind of stuck with what you get for the most part, whereas with a desktop, you can upgrade it for years to come.

 

[PCunicorn]

Oh and another thing, shorting out isn't really a problem. Usually if it's shorts out all you have to do is adjust the component to make sure it's not touching bare metal and it will work again.

 

[LambentTyto]

Lol. Not true. Plus, I don't know if you know this but 10 years is a LONG time n computer components. Components can handle more ESD now then years ago, which are how old the articles you have probably been reading. Buddy, look. Me and spirit have built computers for several years (spirit longer then me), and we know what we are talking about. A components will not sure out because it's touching metal. If you are worried about static electricity, get a ESD wristband, it will keep you grounded, and don't build on the carpet. We are putting our time into helping you, and looked into components to get you a build. You are putting all that to waste, because, what? You are afraid that 10 years ago components would get killed if they touch metal?


Well, that would be a problem. But it's a 1 in 300 chance you will get a dead part. Or more, 1 in 1000. Something crazy.

I'm not putting it to waste, I'm just looking at all my options. Really though, I'm not too into laptops, because after five years, even if they live that long, they're basically junk. My first laptop after four years can't even get the latest drivers anymore, and of course I can't upgrade the thing.

But the article I read wasn't ten years old, lol. I couple of years at most. Maybe the dude who write it doesn't know what he's talking about.

And yeah, I know new hardware is always being developed, so ten years is a long time in computer years. My laptop was a core 2 duo at 1.4ghz with a geforce 8400, and four years ago, it was okay, but today I can't play squat on it.