CPU Overheating

[magicman]

I explained the other night that I have a damaged GPU, which is showing temps in the 80's and 90's under load despite a top-of-the-range cooler. So it is feasible that a damaged chip can overheat on its own. Seriously, thousands of pc's are running a cooler like yours with no issues. It's definately not the cooler. But working out what it isn't is a lot easier than working out what it is.

 

[PC eye]

I have strong doubts at this point that there are any problems with the cpu while issues with the board itself like false temp readings and a failing chipset are the most likely. The board is where to look since memory was swapped.

 

[wasiu0607]

By chips do you mean the chipset that is on the motherboard?

 

[magicman]

By chips do you mean the chipset that is on the motherboard?

By chip I meant cpu. It seems PC eye are of different opinions at this point, he thinks it's the motherboard, which is very possible because of the differences in performance with various memory configurations, and I think it's the cpu, since altering hardware configurations seems to me to have random results. Either way, a replacement of hardware of some description would seem the only step forward at this point.

 

[Motoxrdude]

Can you feel your cpu heatsink? Basicly, when its over 50C, it is almost to the point where you can't hold your hand on it for over 10 seconds.

 

[PC eye]

Although a failing cpu can't be ruled out the voltage setting could either be too high or not stable due to a problem on the board itself. I'm just wondering if clearing the cmos to bring back the default settings would help.

 

[wasiu0607]

Although a failing cpu can't be ruled out the voltage setting could either be too high or not stable due to a problem on the board itself. I'm just wondering if clearing the cmos to bring back the default settings would help.

Ya MagicMan mentioned about resetting the CMOS before, but Im not sure how to do it. If it's possible, can anyone list the steps on how to reset the CMOS? Thanks.

 

[magicman]

The location of the required jumper is different in each board, if you can post your motherboard model (I don't think it's been posted before) then we can tell you where it is, and then the procedure. If you don't know it, you can read the motherboard manual, that should say where it is. There's usually a model number printed on the motherboard itself, near the PCI slots, as well.

 

[PC eye]

On most newer model boards with the lower number of jumpers that should be right near the battery itself. That is where to look on Socket A and later at least. Taking the battery out first and moving the jumper over to the next pin for a few second and then back to the default position is all that is needed. Once you have done that the battery can be replaced on the spot. On the next powerup you will have to set time and date at that time to then save and exit to save the correct settings. Before leaving the bios however any preknown bios setting changes can be done following the time and date correction there.

 

[wasiu0607]

Ok PC Eye.

My model is Intel D865PERL


Edit:

Could you guide me step by step on how to reset the cmos so I dont screw up? Thanks

edit:

Resetting CMOS
As the system reboots, watch the BIOS identifier to make sure the new BIOS version was properly installed.

During boot, press the [F2] key to enter the BIOS Setup Utility.
Return the CMOS settings to the factory defaults by pressing [F9], then press [ENTER] to load setup defaults.
NOTE: If you saved your CMOS setting as custom defaults before the BIOS upgrade, then go to the Exit menu and choose the “Load Custom Defaults“ option to return it to your previous custom settings.
Go through each screen of options and return the CMOS settings to the values that you wrote down prior to upgrading the BIOS.
Press [F10] to save the settings, then press [ENTER] to accept the changes.

I got this off the Intel website. Seems this is either a different kind of reset though, since I dont have to do anything to the motherboard...

 

[PC eye]

If you made changes in the bios prior to clearing the cmos what this does is instruct you how to proceed to make the same changes again after the default are seen upon restart. This tells you which keys to press in their respective order. On many boards you can simply move the jumper back and forth to clear the cmos itself without even removing the battery. But to insure this is done completely plan on taking it out until you move the correct jumper.
Generally that stands out from any others due to how close it is to the battery location and distance from the others. With the information here it simply instructs on how to load the bios defaults not clearing the cmos itself. Plus this is general info on how to proceed after a bios update that still applies after you clear the cmos and reset both the time and date.

 

[wasiu0607]

Can you guide me step by step on how to reset the jumper on D865PERL? I really don't want to cause more damage then what I already have done. Also, what's a jumper? Is it near the battery?

 

[PC eye]

A jumper is usually a black colored plastic cap sitting on two of three or more
metal pins facing upward from the board. The user's manual that came with the system itself will also outline how to locate and clear the cmos. Hopefully you still have that onhand due to needing a support request just to download a copy of that from their support site. That's a big annoyance there for the simple task of clearing the cmos. Once you have done this just once you will laugh when looking back at it as to how easy it was. Look within about 1/2" at most away from the battery socket for a little black rectangle with a plastic cap or tab covering two out of three pins. Remember it is now in the default position. All you do is move over one pin and then right back to default.

 

[wasiu0607]

Nope, resetting cmos didnt fix the problem

 

[magicman]

Nope, resetting cmos didnt fix the problem

Well in that case you're back to where you were before, in need of new hardware.

 

[PC eye]

It's certainly pointing in that direction after the amount of things tried already. Swapping out the video card along with the cpu may be the only way to isolate the problem. If another cpu and video card goes in and sees the same problems the board is toast by the way of chipset. If you see a sudden improvement with the pullout of either the cpu or card you will have yanked the bad hardware.

 

[wasiu0607]

Turns out the ATX 12v 4-pin socket is at fault.

 

[PC eye]

Just Everloving Wonderful!

Something had a short to see that! You may have a contact to ground through the mounts or something decided to pull some amps through. There's no doubt now that the board is toast. Even if you swapped out the chipset the damage there is a clear indication of a direct short even briefly to see the plastic scored like that. AAARGGHH...!

 

[magicman]

Oh, and it seems you were right with your gut instinct about it being the motherboard, PC Eye.

 

[PC eye]

It's certainly a rotten shame. But this is just what will happen at times. I've seen capaciters go "kaboom" while testing other types of hardwares as well as seeing what dead shorts will do. It's a gut something alright!

wasiu0607 start looking around the board with a magnifying glass and small flashlight as well as the underside. Look for any type of black or dark scoring on the board itself. It won't necessarliy be that large in size.