Upgrading Intel E6750 Stock Air Cooler (LGA 755)

K

Koku

New Member
Upgrading Intel E6750 Stock Air Cooler (LGA 775)

As the title suggests, I've been thinking about upgrading the stock Intel fan/heatsink that came with the E6750 Dual-Core Processor to something more reliable.

Could anyone recommend me a good Cooler for a Socket LGA 755? Preferably under/around $30? (Feel free to recommend whatever, it would just be really nice if it was around that price range)


Also, does anyone know the danger temperatures for the E6750?

I've been using HWMonitor to check my temps, and at Idle my temperatures stay around 36-40C. I had noticed that under load, "CPU" was hitting about ~65C, however it was saying each core (2 cores) were hitting just about 90C.

So I reapplied some Arctic Silver Thermal Paste to the CPU/Heatsink last week, using a razor blade to make it a thin and smooth layer (still visibly covering). I noticed the temperatures under load dropped to "CPU" being ~47C, and my 2 cores hitting right around 60C. However, over the past few days its slowly gone up to "CPU" hitting about 53C, and my 2 cores hitting upto 70C. Is this normal? Is the thermal paste possibly too thin, or is this a case of it just..."breaking in" for lack of a better term.

Should I just pay attention to the "CPU" temperature rating instead of worrying about the Core temperature ratings?


As a last note, I'd like to try bumping my CPU from 2.66GHz to 3GHz after getting heating worries out of the way.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations/advice!
 
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Okedokey

Okedokey

Well-Known Member
I would be careful overclocking anything with that PSU>

You could look at the Zalman LED series as they're a good cooler, or even the AIO watercoolers by Corsair, Antec etc.
 
Okedokey

Okedokey

Well-Known Member
Processor frequency, temperature and power requirements are not linear. Secondly wattage means very little. Case in point, your Rosewill (or as i like to call them Diewill) PSU has 55A on the 5 volt rail. Nothing uses that anymore. As a result your PSU will shutdown when it is asked to deliver 228W from the 12V rail excluding the CPU. Rubbish for a 600W PSU.

That PSU is of poor quality and has limited specifications to the ATX 2 class, which means essentially that one of the 12V rails is dedicated to the CPU, leaving only 19A (228W) for the rest of the 12V system. Just barely enough. Not enough for an overclocked system.

The 9800GTX+ can draw up to 150 watts (12 amps). Then deduct the low efficiency, capacitor ageing and temperature effects (>30% derating), you're very close to overloading that system. This is even without an overclock.

This means that if you are pushing a 9800GTX (not the most efficent core) and overclocking you run the risk of power issues. This will cause problems.
 
K

Koku

New Member
Is it really necessary to insult any of the brands/parts I use?

And I apologize for not knowing the insides and out of a PSU, or electrical readings in general. I still don't entirely understand it.

Considering I used my 500W Rosewill nearly 24/7 and did alot of heavy gaming for 3+ years (it still isn't dead, fan started to go, making annoying sounds) I think that's rather good. If anything, I'd consider 500W "very close," but I'm not so sure about the 600W. Again, I'm no expert. It just sounds fishy to me, logically. Sorry if I'm amazingly off.


Anyways, back on topic. Anyone else care to comment on my heating worries?
 
Okedokey

Okedokey

Well-Known Member
Im not insulting the brand, im telling you the quality is rubbish. You asked why, i told you. If you continue on to overclock and it goes bad, you risk losing the lot.

Overclocking, heat and power are all very much related.
 
2048Megabytes

2048Megabytes

Active Member
I would listen to what Bigfella is telling you. There are a lot of power supplies on the market that are just not good quality. The power supply you chose just isn't a quality component. Computer parts need Direct Current to function properly. If you are not getting a good supply of Direct Current your performance is likely going to be poor. Worst, if your power supply shorts out it could take the motherboard and destroy other parts as well. If you value your system I would look in to getting a quality power supply.

Here is one suggestion:

Antec BP550 Plus 550 Watt Continuous Power Power Supply - $75
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=PS-BP550UP
 
K

Koku

New Member
Look, I'm not asking about PSU's. I understand the brand isn't top-notch (I guess paying attention to newegg ratings isn't always best).

The computer is 3+ years old, aside from a part or two, and I plan on building a new one sometime next year (in 6 months, maybe?). It was meant to be a pretty low-budget gaming computer, and it has done that wonderfully.

Again, I'm just looking for a cheap-ish CPU Fan/Heatsink. Not to spend $80 on a new power supply that I don't feel I have a need for, considering I just spent that on an apparently "rubbish" PSU 6 months ago. I'd rather save the cash for the next PSU I buy for a newer computer.

I said I was thinking about trying to bump my CPU up a few MHz, not that I absolutely would. If you all apparently think that it won't work, then fine. It won't work. I know better then to try it then. $80 isn't worth an extra 300 MHz on a dated Duel-Core. I could just double that and probably get a better Quad-Core or i3/5.


Now then, would somebody please leave a comment about the things I'm actually asking about in the original topic? And not the fact that my Rosewill PSU is crap?
 
P

Phy

New Member
The max temperature for the E6750 is 72c, after that it should automatically backoff to save itself. When I looked into installing the cooler for my own computer I found that people now believe that putting a pea sized amount in the center and then attaching the cooler works better.
 
Okedokey

Okedokey

Well-Known Member
Koku said:
As a last note, I'd like to try bumping my CPU from 2.66GHz to 3GHz after getting heating worries out of the way.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations/advice!
Click to expand...

The "recommendations / advice!" have been given. Don't overclock with that PSU.

To answer your second questions, temps are normal.
 
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8

87dtna

Active Member
I despise the mounting system but if you don't plan to remove the CPU for a long time yet the cooler master hyper 212+ is one of the best bang for the buck coolers there is.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065


BTW, just FYI but it is socket 775 not 755. And on your PSU, it is a lower quality unit but your PC does not pull that much wattage. The risk of a small overclock is extremely minimal. A good quality 400w PSU would power your rig with zero issues. Do you have your 9800gtx+ overclocked?

You stock FSB is 333 (1333), taking it straight to 400 (1600 affective) would give you 3.2ghz and probably not require any voltage increase. BUT, remember make sure you take your ram multiplier down as overclocking the FSB also overclocks the ram.

And to answer you temp question, 70c under load for the core temp is fine. Max is around 100. With the hyper 212+ your temps probably won't even see 60c loaded with the overclock.


One last question, is this the PSU you have?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182032&Tpk=rosewill 600w
 
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K

Koku

New Member
87dtna said:
I despise the mounting system but if you don't plan to remove the CPU for a long time yet the cooler master hyper 212+ is one of the best bang for the buck coolers there is.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065
Click to expand...

The mounting system does seem somewhat tedious, having to remove the motherboard. But, that does look pretty good. I will definitely consider it.


87dtna said:
BTW, just FYI but it is socket 775 not 755. And on your PSU, it is a lower quality unit but your PC does not pull that much wattage. The risk of a small overclock is extremely minimal. A good quality 400w PSU would power your rig with zero issues. Do you have your 9800gtx+ overclocked?
Click to expand...

Yikes, you are correct. Updated my sig to the correct number, 775. And I'm not really surprised its lower quality. I know Rosewill has alot in the computer business, although they aren't the greatest. That being said though, I figured something mid-level 6 months ago would power something 3 years ago perfectly fine.

And as for the 9800 GTX+ question, I believe the GTX+ is factory overclocked slightly, although I have yet to try and push it any further. I was thinking about it, but then I tried the EVGA stress test tool and saw it hit 75C (heavy gaming, it usually hits ~65C!) so I changed my mind on that. Maybe a little wouldn't hurt. Also, the box suggested a 450W PSU for the 9800 GTX+, so I'm sure it and the older CPU could probably just barely get by on a 400W PSU.

87dtna said:
You stock FSB is 333 (1333), taking it straight to 400 (1600 affective) would give you 3.2ghz and probably not require any voltage increase. BUT, remember make sure you take your ram multiplier down as overclocking the FSB also overclocks the ram.

And to answer you temp question, 70c under load for the core temp is fine. Max is around 100. With the hyper 212+ your temps probably won't even see 60c loaded with the overclock.
Click to expand...

I figured it wouldn't need much, if any, of a voltage increase. And I'll be sure to keep the ram advice in mind, if/when I overclock.

And thank you for answering the temperature questions.


87dtna said:
One last question, is this the PSU you have?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182032&Tpk=rosewill 600w
Click to expand...

Yup, thats the one.
 
8

87dtna

Active Member
Well that PSU certainly isn't the worst rosewill by a longshot. With the wattage your rig is pulling, it's fine for a small to moderate overclock.

They recommend higher than necessary wattage PSU for the cards because they have to cover their ass. The lower quality PSU's (as we've been discussing) are more the equivalent of a lower wattage good quality PSU. So what they are basically saying is even a low quality 450w psu can run a 9800gtx+. So you are fine.

As a *general* rule, the more efficient the PSU the better quality it is. 80+ certified is good, then you have 80+ bronze, silver, and gold. Your PSU is 72% efficient, the lower efficiency generally means cheaper parts were used to build it. Just for future reference ;)

If your voltage is currently on Auto, just set the FSB to 400, change the ram speed multiplier, and boot. Then run prime95 stress test for atleast an hour to make sure it's stable. Thats after you install the aftermarket cooler of course.
 
Okedokey

Okedokey

Well-Known Member
I disagree, that PSU only has available 19A for the 12V system minus the CPU (refer to ATX12V 2.01 standard, section 1.2.4). I wouldn't overclock anything on that ever. Its not about wattage, that is very misleading. Its about amperage and quality. In fact that PSU fails to meet some of the ATX12V 2.01 standards such as hold up time (min should be 17ms).

That PSU has no active PFC, poor efficiency, small cooling fan (low quality too), MTBF rated at 25oC rather than 40oC. As a result you would derate the max power delivery by at least 30% as shown by this derating curve (curve 2). That provides a total of around 14A available to the 12V rail (minus the CPU). That is dangerously close to the GTX9800+ (13A stock) especially so, when overclocked. I wouldn't push it any further.

Sure it will 'work', in fact it'll probably work for a good while. But on that nice hot summer day, in 6 months or so, whilst gaming, when it goes bang!, you'll wish you had've listened to me as it will quite possibly take the whole system out. Derating is something many forget, and for cheaper quality PSUs is essential. Especailly when specs are given @ 25oC which is almost never the operating conditions. I don't want to get in an argument over this, (and I wont), but recommending any overclocking on this PSU is irresponsible.
 
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8

87dtna

Active Member
Interesting. How is a 120mm fan small? nearly all higher end quality PSU's have a single 120mm fan. Also, how would overclocking the CPU (which is on the other 19a rail) affect the rail that the GPU is on? I wasn't recommending overclock on the card, only the CPU. The cpu being a only 65w TDP, a little over 5 amps, even at your derating of 14 amps on the second rail he should be able to overclock 100% and still have headroom.


May I ask, whats your opinion on this PSU-

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817339024
 
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StrangleHold

StrangleHold

Moderator
Staff member
Even though me and bigfellla disagree alittle bit about the CPU 12V rail. He is right, its a piece of junk. The rating are at max and I doubt the second rail could get 19 amps without tripping ( my guess is 14/15 amps) and if it doesnt trip it will overheat and just burn out. Roadkill uses 3 or 4 different manufactures and they are all cheap and advertise the watts and amps. at max which means about 3 or 4 seconds then you get a fireworks show. Roadkill is famous for over rating them in a devious way.

And the hec is junk too.
 
Okedokey

Okedokey

Well-Known Member
Lol road kill. can i use that too? I like Diewill better though ;)

87dtna said:
Interesting. How is a 120mm fan small? nearly all higher end quality PSU's have a single 120mm fan.
Click to expand...

Actually most high quality PSUs use 140mm fans and are rated at 40oC.
 
StrangleHold

StrangleHold

Moderator
Staff member
The thing about roadkill is they are newegg house brand. They want them as cheap as possible and they order them from manufactures that make cheap power supplies to start with, so you can imagine the build quaity on these things. hec are the same, but they just make there own, overrated and cheap built.

For the same price you can get something like this, and its way better quality. But the CX line is still lower quality then the TX/HX/AX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028
Or even this one. Just a 520W but has the same amount of watts and amps on the 12V rail the 600W corsair
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151094
 
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