Upgrading Intel E6750 Stock Air Cooler (LGA 755)

[StrangleHold]

My whole point here was the power supply really needs to be replaced. Dont give a big crap about the CPU rail. Its not overloaded. Isnt going to matter if its overclocked a few 100mhz. or not. Its the system rail thats pretty much at its limit. If the dude just looks at YouTube videos all day or just looks around on the internet most of the time, it isnt going to matter much. But if he games alot, it will go out sooner or later.

 

[Koku]

My whole point here was the power supply really needs to be replaced. Dont give a big crap about the CPU rail. Its not overloaded. Isnt going to matter if its overclocked a few 100mhz. or not. Its the system rail thats pretty much at its limit. If the dude just looks at YouTube videos all day or just looks around on the internet most of the time, it isnt going to matter much. But if he games alot, it will go out sooner or later.

@StrangleHold, I really have to ask. Was the only reason you responded to this topic to take shots that my PSU is crap? :U

@87dtna, Thank you for all of your helpful information. I am still paying attention to this topic.


That aside. It's nice to see this discussion (as off topic as it is) tipping a bit more into 87dtna favor.

As StrangleHold has just said, adding a couple extra MHz to the CPU most likely WILL NOT cause much of a hit.

BigFella, StrangleHold. I appreciate all the technical talk you have put into the discussion, but Overclocking is meant to have the possibility of dangers, whether its frying something, or slicing a year or two off one thing or another, or possibly nothing at all. If I were to put the money into giving myself a completely "Safe" overclocking, I might as well as just buy better grade things with a factory clocked speed of my preference.

That being said, I also see that I may be stressing my PSU in general. But look, this was my old PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182044

Efficiency > 65%

Output +3.3V@22A, +5V@16A, +12V1@15A, +12V2@16A, [email protected], [email protected]

MFTB 100k hours at max. load, normal line and 25°C

3 years of heavy use with plenty of uptime, and it still works just fine. The fan isn't dead yet, and quite honestly it doesn't feel as though its pushing any less air. The fan just started to make annoying noises, which really couldn't be fixed.

Even after the fan started to make noise, I still used it for several more months before the fan noise finally got to me, and I decided to pick up a new one.

And just to stop any "the heat killed it" arguments, it was already past the hot season when the fan began to make noise, and it was far into the hot season when I decided to replace it. Keep in mind, the few hottest days of summer here are around 110F, with a decent amount of humidity. With the average summer day in the high 90F's, possibly very low 100F's.

It never gave me any technical issues whatsoever.


This is the new PSU, as you have most likely already seen:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182032

Efficiency > 72%

Output +3.3@30A, +5V@55A, +12V1@19A, +12V2@19A, -12V@1A, [email protected]

MFTB 100k hours at 25°C, max. load, nominal input

Now, I apologize if I skipped over any other important details that might break this idea, but the newer one seems quite a bit better then the older one. Maybe not MUCH better, but still quite an improvement. I certainly would not have tried to overclock anything on my older PSU, given the fact its low grade and I felt I was already pushing it slightly. I mean, I believe I only paid like $30-40 for the thing. I'm sure 3 years may not seem like a long time for a top-quality PSU, but I feel like I got my moneys worth out of it.


This is not comparing a crappy 600W PSU to an ultra-quality 500W PSU. This is comparing a crappy 600W PSU to an even crappier 500w PSU.

I would probably say the 600W is 1.5 times better (IN MY CONDITIONS, maybe not straight off the technical readings), or at LEAST 1.3 times better then my older one.

Do you REALLY think that I still need to upgrade? I went from 3 years (and still working!), even through 110F weather, on a $35 500W with extremely cheap parts (Rosewill, apparently), to a $70 600W with cheap parts (again, Rosewill apparently) that seems to be atleast 1.3 times better then the previous.


I don't mind if you want to point out that they really aren't quality built PSU's (you have shown plenty of proof), or that they won't last as long as they could. I don't really mind if the thing blows up after 6 more months, although I'd feel like I've gotten my moneys worth if it lasts 2-3 years or more.

The way this topic went, it makes me feel like a god for the fact my poorly made 500W has lasted so long. Of course, that goes away with every other post saying my 600W shouldn't even handle my system, but hey. Whatever.


I think you would have better luck explaining how the hell my 500W is working perfectly fine, then trying to tell me my 600W is scrap metal.

Again, we are comparing a poor quality 500W to a poor quality (albeit better quality then the 500W) 600W. As StrangleHold has just said (And 87dtna has been saying), overclocking a few hundred MHz will not effect my current setup.

 

[Okedokey]

I give up.

 

[Computer_Freak]

listen to bigfella. In terms of PSU's he is probably the most knowledgeable person i have seen on the internet.

Just dont OC. Remember, a new PSU can be carried over to your next build. As they say, its not wattage, its the amps. your 12v line has literally just enough to juice your system. its probably being pushed quite a bit right now. and as everyone has said, you dont just risk your PSU, you risk your whole PC. You say OCing has risks, but in most cases its people being stupid where problems arise. you do it right, and your PC will last. You are being dumb right now, OCing on a cheap PSU thats on its limit, and if you start gaming it pushes it even more? a PSU is the heart of your system. Its the life force. you have a bad heart, you have problems. same applies to PSU's

Whats the point of coming on a forum if you wont listen to us? we are trying to help. we all spend money, we all earn money, trust me, nobody wants to spend more than they have to. The great thing about a PSU is that it can be carried over. So get a better PSU. Mine has lasted for like 2 years, and been taken to my new system. ill still take it to my next system if its still alive (no fan noises, or if i feel it needs to be retired).

Personally, i dont think im going to use anything but Corsair for PSU. I prefer a single rail, and their are very well built units, with plenty of amps on the 12v line. plus they dont break the bank. I bought a 750w so i can have some headroom, plus PSU are most efficient at about 60 - 80% loads.

As for a cooler, i Recommend CoolerMaster HYper 212 Evo. Basically a Hyper 212+ but with improvements (heatpipes closer, they draw heat better, instead of loading the 2 centre one). I used it on my E6400 and my temps would not go past 45 degrees (overclocked from 2.13 to 3.5GHz). My i7 they dont go past 55. so its a pretty great cooler.

 

[Koku]

listen to bigfella. In terms of PSU's he is probably the most knowledgeable person i have seen on the internet.

Just dont OC. Remember, a new PSU can be carried over to your next build. As they say, its not wattage, its the amps. your 12v line has literally just enough to juice your system. its probably being pushed quite a bit right now. and as everyone has said, you dont just risk your PSU, you risk your whole PC. You say OCing has risks, but in most cases its people being stupid where problems arise. you do it right, and your PC will last. You are being dumb right now, OCing on a cheap PSU thats on its limit, and if you start gaming it pushes it even more? a PSU is the heart of your system. Its the life force. you have a bad heart, you have problems. same applies to PSU's

Whats the point of coming on a forum if you wont listen to us? we are trying to help. we all spend money, we all earn money, trust me, nobody wants to spend more than they have to. The great thing about a PSU is that it can be carried over. So get a better PSU. Mine has lasted for like 2 years, and been taken to my new system. ill still take it to my next system if its still alive (no fan noises, or if i feel it needs to be retired).

Personally, i dont think im going to use anything but Corsair for PSU. I prefer a single rail, and their are very well built units, with plenty of amps on the 12v line. plus they dont break the bank. I bought a 750w so i can have some headroom, plus PSU are most efficient at about 60 - 80% loads.

As for a cooler, i Recommend CoolerMaster HYper 212 Evo. Basically a Hyper 212+ but with improvements (heatpipes closer, they draw heat better, instead of loading the 2 centre one). I used it on my E6400 and my temps would not go past 45 degrees (overclocked from 2.13 to 3.5GHz). My i7 they dont go past 55. so its a pretty great cooler.

To be honest, I don't even have the need to overclock anymore. It would still be nice to know whether I could or not, for if I ever decide to do it. But that's not really my problem with all the downtalk of my PSU. It's the fact that noone has explained how I've gotten by for so long with my 500W, which is considerably worse then my 600W, while still telling me I'm at the limit and about to go over the edge with the 600W.

I've heard the "Well just because its 600w doesn't mean its actually that" and such, but that also goes for the 500w. If you derate one, you have to derate the other if its similar or worse.

While they may say whether its 600W or 500W doesn't matter, what about the specs? the 600W seems to have atleast 1/3rd better specs then the 500W.

I've heard everything as far as to why my system should BARELY even be running on my 600W PSU. Can anyone explain why I've been able to run perfectly fine on my 500W PSU of worse quality?

I respect what everyone has to say, but can you at least fill in the last part of this pretty much completely off topic puzzle? How is it that even after upgrading from the cheaper 500W to a cheap 600W, is my PSU still considered to be on its "last leg."

The reason I will not be getting a new PSU is because I do not have the cash to spare for something of higher quality and specs, which I'm sure I will be needing for the next system I build.


Thank you for the suggestion for the cooler, and also the Corsair brand for PSU. Finally something on topic since the second page.

 

[Okedokey]

The take home message is that wattage branded on a PSU means nothing. IT’S NOT ABOUT WATTAGE!!! ACTUAL 12V RAIL AMPERAGE IS MORE IMPORTANT!

If you would like, post the model of that 500W PSU you were using. But remember, this kind of issue is a ticking time-bomb. As I said before, it could work fine for months, but then one nice hot summer day, playing BF3 (or similar) it goes BANG! Goodbye computer. It cant be the PSU, it worked up until now right? Wrong.

A Corsair 430W PSU has more 12V rail amperage than many 600W poor quality PSUs. That’s just one criterion. The ability of PSU to meet your needs is based on several more criteria (quality). Quality PSUs such as almost all Corsair units are rated at 40oC, have high quality Japanese capacitors, active PFC, 140mm fans, better quality chokes and higher quality windings. This is why their Mean Time Before Failure (MTBF) is 100,000 hours at 40oC rather than 20/25oC!!! That’s just the tip of the iceberg. So when you derate a Corsair 430W PSU, you do it from 40oC, at 1W/degree above 40oC. Not 4W/degree above 20oC. Do you see the difference?

Your original post (as I remember it) was, I have temp concerns (what coolers are better), I want to overclock (what range do I have). Now if there is one thing that is completely relevant to this discussion is the power supply. If you have a struggling poor quality PSU, that can result in symptoms that show up as temperature issues, BSOD, freezes etc. etc., and if you overclock it - it will get worse. They're all related.

But the kicker here is: If you take the chance and push (or imo use) this PSU (as others promote), you could lose your CPU, RAM, MOBO and more. Even 300MHz on the CPU. You must understand this PSU is already stressed (13A GPU on a 19A rail derated to around 14A at best). This is probably why your fan on the previous PSU failed. It met its mean-time before failure early, because it was used more beyond its design criteria, to cool an overloaded system.

Don’t push it mate. Especially when (according to you) "... you don't have the need...". Mate seriously; I wouldn't even be using that PSU at all. Risk is about the probability of something going bad (high) and the impact that has (if your computer gets fried, I would say that is pretty bad). In this case, you hit both, very likely (especially with an overclock), and it could take out your system. But of course you can do what you want

So, the first question should always be what is powering your kit. In this case a very low quality unit. If you wish to disregard our advice, by all means go ahead. But it is always easier to hear, "what you want to hear". If you cannot afford a new PSU fine, just don't overclock. Simple.

Koku, at CF, we're here to help. But no-one with any shred of knowledge would recommend you OC with that PSU. You have had 2 x VIPs and a member say no, and one member say yes. Either way its your call.

Either way, Ive suggested coolers that work well for that CPU.

Either way, make sure you have GREAT cooling in that case. This will help that poor PSU and everything else. Remember, voltage droop = temperature issues = broken computer.

 

[Koku]

...

You continue to edit your post, lmao. I don't want to reply if I'm going to miss any of your points, so let me just point out the things I was to discuss.

1. Coolers for a CPU. This has already been done, but more suggestions do not hurt.

2. 500W vs 600W. Same brand (rosewill). 600W has considerably better specs then the 500W, and while the 500W can handle the PC perfectly fine (no hiccups or random shutdowns, BSOD), the 600W is apparently about to drive over the edge any moment now.

Edit: StrangleHold, I would appreciate it alot if you could explain the whole 500W vs 600W matter to me, if you happen to check this thread again (I'm pretty sure you will).

 

[Okedokey]

SOrry about the edits, I was trying to be clear.

Ill ask you a question instead.

1. Coolers for a CPU. This has already been done, but more suggestions do not hurt.

1. Did you read my 2 previous posts about the Zalman LED series and AIO Corsair units?

2. 500W vs 600W. Same brand (rosewill). 600W has considerably better specs then the 500W, and while the 500W can handle the PC perfectly fine (no hiccups or random shutdowns, BSOD), the 600W is apparently about to drive over the edge any moment now.

2. Have you any clue about PSUs whatsoever? No disrespect, but if you think that because its fine, itll be fine, so its fine = win! then fine. Ive gone through almost everything I can in terms of engineering and science. But please, post the specs of the 500W and ill try and explain. But don't expect a black and white answer. As I said :

If you would like, post the model of that 500W PSU you were using. But remember, this kind of issue is a ticking time-bomb. As I said before, it could work fine for months, but then one nice hot summer day, playing BF3 (or similar) it goes BANG! Goodbye computer. It cant be the PSU, it worked up until now right? Wrong.

Post the specs of that 500W PSU. It may have been a better PSU in terms of quality, and as I have shown wattage means NOTHING!>

 

[Okedokey]

Just to add, because I think many people dont realise:

PSUs convert AC to DC via a winding
This causes heat (read efficiency)
Voltage is regulated via resistors
Rails are determined via voltage dividers (resistors)
Resistance causes heat
Heat increases resistance
Efficiency decreases with heat
Heat increases with resistance
and so on....

This is why poor quality PSUs suffer from de-rating more.

Stamped wattage means little, look at the 500W PSU amperage and certifications according to specficiation. Also Rosewill is a brand. NOT a quality mark. As Strangle pointed out earlier, several cheap ass chinese manufacturers make Roeswill PSUs, so indeed, your 500W PSU may even be a better PSU.

But mate, by all means post the exact model of you PSU (500W) one and I'll attempt to show you the differences. But in my experience, the difference between a 500W and a 600W Rosewill on the rail that counts (12V rail) is less than 50W. Bugger all. And as such a waste of money.

To give you a real example:

600W Rosewill = 12V Rail @ 35A MAX. Get to this point = shutdown. Derated = 26.7A max. Including CPU. *@ 50oC = 25 x 4W = 100W = 8.3A derating
500W Rosewill = 12V Rail @ 30A MAX. Get to this point = shutdown. Derated = 21.7 A max. Including CPU.*@ 50oC = 25 x 4W = 100W = 8.3A derating

430W Corsair = 12V Rail @ 28A CONTINUOUS. Get to this point, no worries, its continuous PSU. Derated = 27.17A One rail. *@50oC = 10 x 1W (better components) = 10W = 0.83A derating. 1/10th.

So as you can see, quality 430W PSU has (even when derated to the same temp) due to its quality and design - more than a Rosewill 500/600W PSU. This is only accounting for the effects of temperature - and nothing else (e.g. ATX design standards, capacitor ageing, active PFC, ripple, crossloading, harmonics, fan noise and efficacy etc etc).

I really hope this is clear else, i give up.

 

[Computer_Freak]

as i say, for budget, no cooler will touch the Hyper 212 Evo. Get that. It even beats some more expensive coolers but quite a margin.

Its the generally accepted Budget cooler for awesome performance.

now to go to PSU stuff again, post the specs or a picture of each sticker (that shows the wattage, rails, amps etc)

then we can show you from there

 

[StrangleHold]

No, I didnt enter the discussion just to rag your power supply. Kinda like if you had a car and wanted to know about the carburetor and a person noticed you had a small cheap battery and said, man you better upgrade that battery. bigfellla just gave you information about your P/S. 87dtna came back and started the argument, in the sense from the above statement, that it starts the car, so its fine.

Your question about, if the 500 ran it, the 600 should be fine.

It looks like these were made by two different manufactures. The only advantage the 600 has over the 500 is the efficiency, but only slightly since they are rated at 25c. To answer your question, the 600 dumps alot more watts and amps. on the 5V rail. The 600 has 55 amps and the 500 only puts 15 amps. So the 600 only has a few more watts and amps. on the 12V rail. One is really no better then the other on the 12V rail.

My point is, its a cheap power supply and you have the 12V systems rail pretty much maxed out. If you take offense to that, I dont know what to say. You and 87dtna claim, it starts the car. Well on that hot or cold day when it doesnt start or it shorts out. Saying it (use) to start the car really doesnt mean much, does it?

 

[87dtna]

OMG

If the rail really derated to 8.3a it would have fried the first time he tried to game on it. Thats so stupid it's beyond words.

 

[Okedokey]

OMG

If the rail really derated to 8.3a it would have fried the first time he tried to game on it. Thats so stupid it's beyond words.

Sheesh you don't give up do you. The irony of your last sentence is gold mate.

The derating calculations are for the total 12V system. The derating is BY 8.3A (25%-30%) not to 8.3A as you thought. And again this is for temperature only. The PSUs ability to deliver the rated outputs are dependant on other things too.

Read fail?

 

[87dtna]

I guess I just cannot comprehend the depths of your knowledge on powersupplies with these giant equations and page long essays....or the fact that you still cannot explain how his rig lasted 3 years (other than ''luck'' ) on 31a of 12v rail but will probably blow up any minute on 38a.

 

[Okedokey]

I guess I just cannot comprehend the depths of your knowledge on powersupplies....or the fact that you still cannot explain how his rig lasted 3 years (other than ''luck'' ) on 31a of 12v rail but will probably blow up any minute on 38a.

BTW, derate the the previous power supplies 16a rail by 8.3 amps and what do you get?

You really don't get it do you?

You cannot add the 2 x 19A rails and say it has 38A, or 15A/16A rails and say it has 31A. You have just proven you don't have the first idea mate.

Here is the rating plate for the 500W Rosewill PSU with its 15A and 16A rails that you somehow think can deliver 31A on the 12V rail. LOL.

Picture here if you cant see it.

Notice the total wattage available on the 12V rail on these so called 15A and 16A rails. 480W - 130W = 350W MAX on the 12V rail. This is 29.16A MAX. As this is not a continuous power supply unit, this is the point it shuts down.

So we derate that transformer (call it rail if you want) by 25oC @ 4W per degree, reducing the rail's actual ability by 100W. This is the 8.3A. Divide that (via voltage dividers) across the 2 current seperated rails, and you have a total (MAX) of 11.85/12.85A on each rail respectively. Now most of the time you won't need to derate it so far, as during winter, night time etc, it wont be 50oC inside that PSU housing. But on a warm day (as Ive said several times before), it can easily get there, add capacitor ageing, a small fan and an overloaded system rail, and you are asking for trouble. Simple as that.

With PSUs you don't run things on the edge of whats possible, unless you're a fool. And if even good PSUs only last 3 - 5 years as you claim, why does mine have a 7 year warranty? Even Rosewill only think that PSU will last a year. LOL>

 

[87dtna]

OMG, I get it just fine you are the one that keeps talking about putting the rails together for the derating. So just for that one statement I put the combined rail totals in there and you take it and run with it. Yeah just proves my point even more.

These PSU's are obviously not derating as much as you think, and that is a FACT based on 3 years of service and replacement due to a cheap fan failure not even because it died. There is no ''luck'' about 3 years, the way you are talking about this PSU you would even consider 6 months to be luck. Even a good quality PSU will only last 3-5 years. So obviously, you are just wrong.

 

[Koku]

Stamped wattage means little, look at the 500W PSU amperage and certifications according to specficiation. Also Rosewill is a brand. NOT a quality mark. As Strangle pointed out earlier, several cheap ass chinese manufacturers make Roeswill PSUs, so indeed, your 500W PSU may even be a better PSU.

This is why I stopped looking at the wattage for specifications, and put up the actual specs (Efficiency, Output, MFTB).

I asked to only compare the Rosewill's because that is what I wanted to discuss. You keep finding reasons to put my 600W Rosewill down on the bar, but you won't do the same for the 500W Rosewill. I don't see the logic behind this whatsoever. From what most of the people here have said, my 500W should have blown my computer to bits after 5 seconds.

600W Rosewill = 12V Rail @ 35A MAX. Get to this point = shutdown. Derated = 26.7A max. Including CPU. *@ 50oC = 25 x 4W = 100W = 8.3A derating
500W Rosewill = 12V Rail @ 30A MAX. Get to this point = shutdown. Derated = 21.7 A max. Including CPU.*@ 50oC = 25 x 4W = 100W = 8.3A derating

I have no idea where you are getting 35A for the 600W compared to the 30A on the 500W

as i say, for budget, no cooler will touch the Hyper 212 Evo. Get that. It even beats some more expensive coolers but quite a margin.

Its the generally accepted Budget cooler for awesome performance.

Best performance for the lowest price. This is the golden answer to anything. Thank you.

now to go to PSU stuff again, post the specs or a picture of each sticker (that shows the wattage, rails, amps etc)

then we can show you from there

You can find a picture of the specs for the 500W Here, unfortunately for the 600W I would have to unplug my PC and yank it out and such. Considering its the same brand, I would hope it would be fine to just think off the top of your head what the 600W would be, comparing it to the 500W (480W? Well then). If not, that is fine. This is really getting nitpicky.

No, I didnt enter the discussion just to rag your power supply. Kinda like if you had a car and wanted to know about the carburetor and a person noticed you had a small cheap battery and said, man you better upgrade that battery. bigfellla just gave you information about your P/S. 87dtna came back and started the argument, in the sense from the above statement, that it starts the car, so its fine.

I love analogies. And it would have been perfectly fine if everyone had just told me that I had a "small cheap battery," but that is not what everyone told me. Everyone has been saying that I am just about to go over the edge, that my PSU is probably about to fry my PC at any given time now.

Even a "small cheap battery" can last out until it runs out of juice without any problems. Of course it wouldn't last or be as good as something of higher quality.

It looks like these were made by two different manufactures. The only advantage the 600 has over the 500 is the efficiency, but only slightly since they are rated at 25c. To answer your question, the 600 dumps alot more watts and amps. on the 5V rail. The 600 has 55 amps and the 500 only puts 15 amps. So the 600 only has a few more watts and amps. on the 12V rail. One is really no better then the other on the 12V rail.

While they may have been made by two different manufactures, I see no reason to believe that either of them was better then the other. Or, atleast, that one shouldn't be considered to be made by the worst possible manufactures and the other the best possible manufactures. Either way, everyone has been saying all of Rosewill's manufactures are extremely cheap.

I would have thought that the 7% efficiency it had over it would probably be the worse advantage is has over it. the +3.3V has an extra 8A, the +5V has an extra 39A (could be a bad thing? lmao), the +12V1 has an extra 4A, the +12V2 has an extra 3A. Those are pretty much the only output advantages (including 7% better efficiency).



All that I am trying to point out, is that if anything it was my 500W that was closest to being maxed out. I would think that with the 600W, I would certainly have a little bit of headroom, enough to add some small PCI-slot hardware, or crank the CPU MHz up just the slightest.

I can agree that they are both extremely cheap, and I would probably be better off upgrading to something better. It's the fact I'm being told that if a bird lands on the tip of my car, its gonna go over the cliff with the 600W, when I've clearly ran with something smaller, of the same or cheaper quality for years.

One is really no better then the other on the 12V rail.

Assuming everyone would agree that the 600W is slightly better then the 500W, enough so to add a tiny bit of hardware or a tiny overclocking of the CPU without it going over with the headroom, this is the correct answer to the 500W vs 600W Rosewill branded PSU's. One is really no better then the other, as far as cheap parts go. I would assume it would die moreso from cheap parts then me trying to draw just the slightest bit more power from it.

 

[Okedokey]

OMG, I get it just fine you are the one that keeps talking about putting the rails together for the derating. So just for that one statement I put the combined rail totals in there and you take it and run with it. Yeah just proves my point even more.
.

I have no idea where you are getting 35A for the 600W compared to the 30A on the 500W

Mate, ive added them together from the total ability to provide wattage, divided by 12V = the amount of amps it can deliver. So the PSU has 2 x 19A rails, however it can only deliver 430W on the 12V rail. As shown here. This is 35A for the 600W unit - not 38A.

For the 500W unit, its 350W total 12V rail divided by 12V = 29.16A or ~30A.

So 30A for the 500W unit combined total max.

and

35A for the 600W unit combined total max.

You then derate the TOTAL.

You then divide the total deration by the number of voltage dividers.

You then take that number and subtract it from each rail amperage.

You then have an acutal total (real world) for that PSU.

Assuming everyone would agree that the 600W is slightly better then the 500W, enough so to add a tiny bit of hardware or a tiny overclocking of the CPU without it going over with the headroom, this is the correct answer to the 500W vs 600W Rosewill branded PSU's. One is really no better then the other, as far as cheap parts go. I would assume it would die moreso from cheap parts then me trying to draw just the slightest bit more power from it.

Yes, but only by 5A unrated across 2 voltage divided rails. So you get an extra 1.75A approximately additional head-room on the system and cpu rail by going with the 600W over the 500W. That is 21W additional (approx) on each rail. Essentially nothing - plus don't forget that is MAX.

 

[87dtna]

The fact that they are only 30 and 35a only proves more so that they are not derating as much as you think.

Because 29.16a minus 30% is only 20.4a, divided by 2 is only 10.2a on each rail. Again, it would go poof in a matter of minutes if it really was only putting out that kind of amperage.


And is the derating percentage necessarily linear for the 600w? I really doubt it.

 

[Okedokey]

Wow, you really just don't get it do you. I give up.