New Gaming Rig

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pc_fanatic

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Intel Core i3 Processor i3-2100 3.1GHz 3MB DUAL CORE

Asus GeForce GTX 460 1GB

8GB Patriot DDR3 RAM dual channeled

INTEL STANDARD PROCESSOR COOLING FAN

Asus P8H67-M LE B3 REV 3.0 LGA1155/ Intel H67/ DDR3/ SATA3&USB3.0/ A&GbE/ MATX Motherboard

WD 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB CACHE SATA 6.0Gb/s

24X DUAL LAYER DVD-RW W/LIGHTSCRIBE

INTEL HD 2000/3000 1GB HDMI/DVI/VGA 1080p PCI-EXPRESS VIDEO (ONBOARD)

REALTEK 8-CHANNEL DIGITAL SOUND ONBOARD

REALTEK 10/100/1000 Gigabit Network Card (onboard)

BCC VOYAGER MID-TOWER ATX

(3X) OKIA 80MM CASE COOLER

THERMALTAKE 500 WATT HIGH PERFORMANCE SLI/CROSSFIRE POWER SUPPLY
*CHANGED TO: ANTEC 650W HIGH PERFORMANCE SLI/CROSSFIRE POWER SUPPLY*

All for $665
*New total: $710*

What do you think? Decent for modern gaming? Good value? Enough PSU wattage? Are the fans quiet, efficient? Please help I never bought my own pc before because I didn't realize how much superior they are to consoles. I have more money so I have upgrade room if needed.
 
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you have to buy an os disk and they are 100, has to be the oem builder's disk or it won't work. otherwise looks fine, should play fairly well.
 
pc_fanatic said:
Intel Core i3 Processor i3-2100 3.1GHz 3MB DUAL CORE

Asus GeForce GTX 460 1GB

8GB Patriot DDR3 RAM dual channeled

INTEL STANDARD PROCESSOR COOLING FAN

Asus P8H67-M LE B3 REV 3.0 LGA1155/ Intel H67/ DDR3/ SATA3&USB3.0/ A&GbE/ MATX Motherboard

WD 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB CACHE SATA 6.0Gb/s

24X DUAL LAYER DVD-RW W/LIGHTSCRIBE

INTEL HD 2000/3000 1GB HDMI/DVI/VGA 1080p PCI-EXPRESS VIDEO (ONBOARD)

REALTEK 8-CHANNEL DIGITAL SOUND ONBOARD

REALTEK 10/100/1000 Gigabit Network Card (onboard)

BCC VOYAGER MID-TOWER ATX

(3X) OKIA 80MM CASE COOLER

THERMALTAKE 500 WATT HIGH PERFORMANCE SLI/CROSSFIRE POWER SUPPLY

All for $665

What do you think? Decent for modern gaming? Good value? Enough PSU wattage? Are the fans quiet, efficient? Please help I never bought my own pc before because I didn't realize how much superior they are to consoles. I have more money so I have upgrade room if needed.
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Are you ordering parts and then building it yourselves or would you be getting this prebuilt?

I would go for a quad core in that budget.

Thermaltake PSUs are not so good.I would get something like Corsair/Antec/Seasonic/Silverstone.

And you can also upgrade your GPU to HD6870, since the difference is pretty less in pricing.
 
mobo - don't get H67. get a cheap Z68

PSU - personally would get other brand.

case - don't know about the brand.
 
mihir said:
Are you ordering parts and then building it yourselves or would you be getting this prebuilt?

I would go for a quad core in that budget.

Thermaltake PSUs are not so good.I would get something like Corsair/Antec/Seasonic/Silverstone.

And you can also upgrade your GPU to HD6870, since the difference is pretty less in pricing.
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But I don't think I need quad core right now. I changed PSU to "ANTEC 650W HIGH PERFORMANCE SLI/CROSSFIRE POWER SUPPLY"

Its prebuilt. I just have to insert RAM and GPU because I ordered them separately (this site charged too much for them).
 
daisymtc said:
mobo - don't get H67. get a cheap Z68

PSU - personally would get other brand.

case - don't know about the brand.
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Whats wrong with H67? Is it lack of upgrade path? The case has nothing but good reviews. Also I like how it has included 120mm fans, great bang for buck.
 
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no, the h67 i believe is harder to overclock and not supposed to on it, each chip set has its own benefits to it, and the z68 has the best of all of the others, and is not much more than any of the others, just its bottom price is higher, and he was saying he didn't know anything about the case so no need to jump all over him, and if you are upgrading the ram the best thing to do is to remove the original, it's much better to have the same exact model brand timeing and speed ram and this way you get dual chanel too, otherwise no and it can get screwy too
 
jonnyp11 said:
no, the h67 i believe is harder to overclock and not supposed to on it, each chip set has its own benefits to it, and the z68 has the best of all of the others, and is not much more than any of the others, just its bottom price is higher, and he was saying he didn't know anything about the case so no need to jump all over him, and if you are upgrading the ram the best thing to do is to remove the original, it's much better to have the same exact model brand timeing and speed ram and this way you get dual chanel too, otherwise no and it can get screwy too
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Good info. I didn't jump all over him LMAO. I just explained why i chose that case. This a brand new build so there is no old ram. Fresh pair of 4GB patriot sticks at 1333mhz (dual enabled). I know 8 is overkill but you can't beat a price tag of $55 after rebate :)
 
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Take a quad core, it will seriously outperform the dual core in games, because most games are able to use at least 3 separate cores, so do benefit from the extras.

Change the motherboard, even if it is to another H67 board. You only have 2 DIMM slots, so little room for upgrade, and it isn't exactly great to begin with. I would also not go near Asus with a 10 foot pole.

If you swap your CPU to a 2500k, get a Z68 board. If not, then stick to the H67, but go with a quad core still. The reason I say go with the Z68 if you are going to get a k CPU is because both the CPU and the motherboard have unlocked multipliers, so you will be able to OC well. If you don't get a K CPU, then you don't have an unlocked multiplier, so forking out to get an unlocked board when a locked, H67 board will work just as well seems pointless.

If it is available and you can fit it into budget, get a 2500K + ASRock Pro3, best bang for buck combo.

I would swap the case. Poorly built, very, very bad cable management, and it is like being in a wind tunnel it is so loud
 
jonnyp11 said:
you have to buy an os disk and they are 100, has to be the oem builder's disk or it won't work. otherwise looks fine, should play fairly well.
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Well I doesn't have to be the oem copy, I made the mistake of purchasing the retail copy, which is about 60£ more for windows 7 professional. Although it does come with 32-bit disks and 64-bit disks
 
if it's not the oem disk and he is using a blank hdd then it will not install at all, the oem is made for blank drives and the retail is made to upgrade a drive that already contains windows on it, the way they work is different and they cannot be swapped for the other disks function, not sure where you heard this or whatever but it isn't true.
 
jonnyp11 said:
if it's not the oem disk and he is using a blank hdd then it will not install at all, the oem is made for blank drives and the retail is made to upgrade a drive that already contains windows on it, the way they work is different and they cannot be swapped for the other disks function, not sure where you heard this or whatever but it isn't true.
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That simply isn't true.

The Windows 7 upgrade is for upgrade.

Windows 7 OEM is for system builders. Each licence can only be installed on one system and it will then be bound to that system. Any major hardware changes will make the key invalid, and you will have to purchase another copy. You can install the copy on that computer as many times as you like though, provided the hardware does not change

Windows 7 retail will work on any system. Each licence can only be installed on one system at a time, but it is not bound to any one system. Once you uninstall it from a computer, you can install it on any other using the same key on the previous one.

In summary, the major difference is that a retail key can be reused, whilst an OEM key can only ever be used on one computer

=EDIT=

Upgrade: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116713

OEM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

Retail: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116716
 
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always thought retail and upgrade were the same, so a retail can work as an oem or whatever, nice to know
 
jonnyp11 said:
always thought retail and upgrade were the same, so a retail can work as an oem or whatever, nice to know
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Retail can work as OEM, but OEM can not work as retail. If you really wanted, you could get retail and only ever use it on one system, but you can never get an OEM key and use it on a different computer
 
of course i looked it up on newegg and it costs almost twice as much, which if you change parts or build a new comp every 6 months to a year it's fine but otherwise i don't see the need, but i'm cheep and try to save as much as possible so yeah
 
It such a boring night just prowling around the forums. While I'm here though, I want to 3rd the quad core. And honestly a big second to the i5. While the i3 may do you fine for now, it's intention really wasn't meant for gaming. The i5 though, doesn't cost an arm and a leg more and will give you a lot better performance for a lot longer. I used the 2500k in a build for a friend and it kills every game we've tried from crysis, to BF BC to COD to the witcher 2. (granted, it is paired with a gtx 580).
 
Troncoso said:
It such a boring night just prowling around the forums. While I'm here though, I want to 3rd the quad core. And honestly a big second to the i5. While the i3 may do you fine for now, it's intention really wasn't meant for gaming. The i5 though, doesn't cost an arm and a leg more and will give you a lot better performance for a lot longer. I used the 2500k in a build for a friend and it kills every game we've tried from crysis, to BF BC to COD to the witcher 2. (granted, it is paired with a gtx 580).
Click to expand...

I can always upgrade CPU later. Why spend premium on i5 now when it will cost less later? Do to the fact that hardware prices decrease with time, future proofing only makes sense if you it doesn't cost you an "arm and a leg".
 
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