Search results

I would recommend a Thermaltake Big Typhoon or a Thermalright SI-128. Both will cool the CPU very well, but have the added benefit of helping to cool the very hot northbridge and southbridge heatsinks.

Mild overclocking has NO effect whatsoever on the life of components. Heavy overclocking ie increasing voltages do damage components (electron migration I believe).

It's advised to keep it at 1000 or under unless you have actually overclocked it, and you know how far it can go stable. There is no risk of physical damage. Make sure the memory isn't stopping you from posting above 220MHz.

You've mixed it up. With an IHS, you only need the center area, directly above the CPU, covered. That is why the recommended method for application is a drop, then clamp heatsink down, as most people have IHS's on their processors. Without an IHS, you have a naked core. The entirety of...

For the same reason 7800GT's are more expensive than 7900GT's. I have no idea.

You're using a brush? Are you using Zalman STG-1? If so, just apply all over. The brush will apply the correct thickness of paste. If this is thick paste, and you're using a brush you found in a drawer, stop. Just apply a drop the size of a BB, in the center, and let the heatsink spread it out...

LP is a FAR FAR better heat conductor (10x more I think), because it is just metal. So, if you apply it badly, and it leaks out, it WILL fry your CPU. No idea how long it takes to set. Probably the same as AS5, maybe a bit quicker. But, after finding out that it solidifies, I won't use it...

Liquid Pro is better, but if you remove your heatsink (to upgrade for example), you effectively have to lap to remove it, as it solidifies sometime after application. I had to lap my GPU HS, but I managed to wipe the LP off the core for some reason. But, only ever use LP with copper. No aluminium.

Without OCR (optical character recognition) software, the scanner will simply create an image.

I'd actually be tempted to suggest the 4600, or even a cheaper processor. The extra cache doesn't justify an increase of 50% in price.

You're not meant to pull it off. You're meant to slide it to the edge, then slide it off the heatsink (that's what I did). The paste creates a very strong vacuum effect if you try to simply pull it off.

Google

Well, you want 64-bit Vista. Some Vistas are 32-bit.

Yeah. Only the drive/partition you want the OS to be installed on needs to be formatted.

You can't. All overclocking settings have been removed from the BIOS. Same with all pre-built computer (Dells, Compaqs, HPs etc). I'm sure you can get yourself a nice overclocking motherboard for £40.

Nice. Did you swap for another PSU, or are you going to buy online?

I would highly advise getting Vista instead of XP (XP does not support DX10, and there is no way it ever will) and a DX10 graphics card. I say that as in 6/10 months time, you will start seeing awesome DX10 games coming out, and will regret getting XP and a DX9 graphics card.

Yeah. To activate the internet connection, you have to flush the toilet. You may need to flush a few times.

Get the 5200 X2. The E6700 is a bit better (about 10%/15% on average). This is simply not enough to justify spending $300 (150%) extra. Don't forget you need a motherboard (5200 needs AM2 mobo, E6700 needs S775 mobo [not all S775 mobos accept C2D's]). The 300% you save getting a 5200 allows you...

I think it's more a gimmick, as accessing the pagefile on a hard drive will be quicker than using a flash drive as memory.