considering first build

Discussion in 'Desktop Computers' started by jd10013, Oct 26, 2018.

  1. OmniDyne

    OmniDyne Active Member

    Messages:
    538
    Not a single person said Intel sucks.

    I'll gladly post benchmarks of cheaper AMD processors outclassing similarly priced Intel processors. The tides have changed in the processor market, and it will likely change again.

    That doesn't mean AMD is better than Intel, or that Intel sucks. AMD innovated and outclassed Intel in the market. Intel will likely do the same in a few years.

    You overpaid substantially for a processor against our advice. That's on you.
     
    _Kyle_ likes this.
  2. Darren

    Darren Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    12,010
    First off, I'm not trying to pick a fight in any way here. You've been nothing but respectful and that's appreciated. Just going to say where I'm coming from.

    You can't compare cars to CPU's. Two totally different things, I'm a big car guy too and you're comparing a massive market with a huge stack of products that serve different purposes within said market. Processors are a duopoly and as such their market is totally different. I see what you're saying but it's a poor comparison to draw here.

    Processors run very clear cut benchmarks. If it's better, it's better. If it's faster at one thing then it will always be that way. There's no opinion or room for conjecture here. Price is the same vein, if it's cheaper it's cheaper. There's brand allegiance sure, and of which I've been AMD even when they weren't at their prime, but you've got Intel users here telling you to get AMD so that's not at play.

    OEM licenses aren't tied to motherboards anymore. They say they are but in practice it's not true. My OEM license I've used on 4 different motherboards, countless OS installs, and even 7 and 10. If you have a MS account the license is tied to it and you can put it on nearly any machine (Just not multiple at once). My old job was a repair shop and handling Windows licensing was one of the biggest things I had to worry about. I dealt with imaging and licensing hundreds of machines both for sale and repair. This is also what I'm getting at, I speak from real life experience (as do many others). Here you can see them parroting what they've heard elsewhere even if life experience says otherwise. Not saying everyone at PCPP is useless, likely far from it, but hopefully you see what I'm getting at. Same idea as getting better (not necessarily the best) tech support from Best Buy than the bored dude manning the Walmart electronics counter.

    Again, not trying to take a holier than thou approach, I'm late to this thread anyway so can't talk too much about advice that was or wasn't given.
     
    _Kyle_ likes this.
  3. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    Substantially is a pretty subjective term. 20, 30 bucks isn't substantial to me. Especially if it results in getting what I want. At any rate, I'm perfectly fine with it.
    And let's be honest, all the BS aside, 95 percent of consumers would not know the difference in either intel or amd, especially in gaming where few games use more than a couple cores anyway. Assuming the use of a dedicated video card of course. It's all just comes down to value. And I don't think the difference is big till you get to the upper end stuff like the i-9
     
  4. _Kyle_

    _Kyle_ Active Member

    Messages:
    955
    *cough* Or the superior Threadripper...

    :p
     
  5. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    Some people definitely think that. But the overwheling impression I got from a little research was:

    For most people and application you wont notice a difference

    Each one does some things better

    Amd is a better value, especially at the high end
     
  6. _Kyle_

    _Kyle_ Active Member

    Messages:
    955
    Yeah. In single core and clock speed Intel i9 is superior. In multicore and price/performance the Threadripper is better.
     
  7. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    It's all good, I do value the knowledge here. If I didnt, I wouldn't post. My point is, when I said I wanted an intel build it would have been nice if people had put together some intel builds, or helped me tweak mine instead of pushing amd.
     
    Darren likes this.
  8. OmniDyne

    OmniDyne Active Member

    Messages:
    538
    No. As I've stated, closer to $70. The i5-8400 is worth around $140, maybe $150. $220 is insanely overpriced.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2018
  9. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    Yea, still fine with it
     
  10. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    back with an update. well, everything came in and I just just finished my build. definitely a bit of a learning curve, and I feel like I learned A LOT. now, a couple issues and a couple questions.

    first of all, not sure if this is a software or hardware issue, but I can't shut the computer down through windows. holding the power button on the case in will turn it off, as will the button on the PSU. but when I select shut down or restart from windows it shuts off some, but not all of it. the video card does as the monitor displays no signal, and I'm pretty sure the drives shut off. but the case and cpu fans continue to run, and the only way to get it restarted is to hold in the power button.

    second, not sure where to plug in the internal speaker. most of the spots on the MB are labeled case fan and then a number. there was one spot that had 6 pins, but was labeled for 3 different things like the front panel plugs. tried plugging it in there but nothing.

    lastly, if you can tell from these pics, did I install the IO shield correctly? seems like a bit of space between it an the MB.

    anyhow, thank for the help here, even if I was a bit cantankerous at times, lol. it really was a fun, if not frustrating, experience that I thoroughly enjoyed. cant really see myself buying anything prebuilt again.
    20181222_195500.jpg 20181222_201108.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
  11. jevery

    jevery Member

    Messages:
    930
    The IO shield “snaps” into place in the case opening from the inside of the case. Line it up and press it into place with your hand. It should be firmly attached to the case before you place the MB in place. It’s hard to tell from your picture if your shield is attached to the case or if it’s just sitting on the MB outlets. Do you feel that you got the 9 MB standoffs in place correctly and the MB aligned and attached as per the manual. As for the speaker – Look at your manual for the “speaker/buzzer” pins. On mine it’s 4 pins in a row just above the other case pins. (power, reset, HD LED, Power LED etc.). I think a speaker uses the two outboard pins and a buzzer uses the two inboard pins. A speaker will cover all four pins but will only actually attach to the two outer pins.
     
  12. johnb35

    johnb35 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    41,608
    The speaker cable gets attached to jumper jfp2 page 33 of the manual. If you have the B36 gaming plus motherboard. Sounds like you may have grounded out the motherboard to the case by not installing the standoffs correctly.
     
  13. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    the standoffs on the case were preinstalled. it came with extra, but the the preinstalled ones lined up correctly. and I did snap in the IO shield. i think whats go me unsure is it seems there are "spacers" for lack of a better word, that keep the MB from touching the plate. if you look at the picture, you can see it pretty well on the port above the three round audio ports at the bottom of the shield. is that correct, or should the MB fit snugly against the plate?
    and what do you mean by grounded out? I mean, you saying thats causing the shutdown problem?
    20181222_195443x.jpg 20181222_220406b.jpg 20181222_195500x.jpg

    Edit.........figured out the shutdown/restart issue, just a windows 10 setting. also, plugged the speaker into the spot you said. is there a way to test it?
     

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    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
  14. jevery

    jevery Member

    Messages:
    930
    I looked at mine and it looks exactly the same as yours. The tab at the Ethernet port is visible. Not real clear on the function of the tabs myself. I’d think grounding the board is taken care of by the standoffs – Maybe just a tension thing to keep parts from rattling due to fan vibration?

    Improper grounding is a fairly common issue with new builders. Sometimes a standoff gets put where it doesn’t belong resulting in MB – chassis contact that keeps the board from booting, or maybe weird power up/down issues. There’s been more than one that’s dropped in a board without using standoffs and didn’t understand why it didn’t power up correctly.

    On my MSI board I get a single short beep as the board boots. You might try reversing the polarity. I know polarity makes a difference on the HD and power LEDs, but not on the power or reset pins. Not sure about the speaker though.
     
  15. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    thanks. I thought it was right, but wasn't sure. when I was putting the board in i wasn't sure what those tabs were or what to do with them; whether I should bend them back or what. have read a million times how important is was the MB not touch the case, so didn't want to force things. it's funny though, did have trouble starting it. when I got it all hooked up and hit the power button nothing happened, thought I was going to cry, lol. couldn't figure out what I did wrong. even took a PSU out of another computer to see if that's what it was. turned out I had one of the power connectors plugged into the PSU wrong. was one of the 4 pin connectors with the separate 2 pin connector, like the PSU plug just 4+2. can't remember if it was off the video card or one of the drives. but with both parts plugged in wouldn't start. when I fixed it, no problem. I figured it out cause i remembered reading somewhere (probably here) that in situations like that its best to unplug everything and just plug in the MB and PS power cables and see if it starts. when I did that, it did. actually made me think the PSU was dead. but to make sure I did the same thing with my new PSU, and it powered up again. was able to kind of work backwards from there till I figured it out. I believe I've seen a couple tutorials where people check the PSU and MB like that before they even put it in the case.

    as for the shutdown/restart issue, I figured it was most likely software as the front panel buttons worked correctly. at first that's what I thought it was and reconnected them. But windows 10 has this crazy fast startup thing under power options that apparently makes a lot of system do that. but I do have to say, boy that SSD makes a difference. that computer boots in about 15 seconds, unbelievable compared to what I'm used to. but it did take me some internet searching to figure out i had to download partition software for the HDD. I could see it in device manager so I knew I had it connected and powered ,but couldn't use it.
    one last question though, another thing that gave me fits were the case fans. they had a molex connector that also had a little 3 pin connector like the cpu fan. I had an adapter that came with something that allowed me to connect both fans and had a 4 pin connector. but no matter which fan header I plugged it into they wouldn't work. It wasn't till I plugged it directly into the PSU that my fans came on. why is that? why couldn't they draw power from the board?
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
  16. jevery

    jevery Member

    Messages:
    930
    There’s 4-pin PWM, (pulse width modulation), fans, (like the cpu fan). Speed is controlled by the fourth wire. And there are 3-pin fans where speed is controlled by dc current. I think MB headers are generally 3-pin, (with exception of the CPU fan). Case fans come with a 3-pin connector and should work when connected to a fan header on the MB. MB fan headers give you some control of fan speed using MB software or bios settings. Using MOLEX connection will provide no control of fan speed unless you use some sort of hardware aftermarket fan controller.
    Sounds like your first build was a success. Congratulations.
     
  17. johnb35

    johnb35 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    41,608
    Uhm, that tab that is going inside the ethernet port needs to be bent out of the way. You'll need to remove the motherboard to do it.
     
  18. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    aside from appearance, does it matter? the port isn't blocked, and wont be used anyway.
     
  19. jevery

    jevery Member

    Messages:
    930
    Mine is used and seems to function as intended, although, doesn't appear to extend quite as far into the opening as yours.
     
  20. jd10013

    jd10013 Member

    Messages:
    77
    i just want to make sure it isn't going to cause a short or anything. it will connect to the internet through wireless USB adapter, which is already set up, so that won't be an issue. I really don't want to take the damn thing apart if it wont cause any harm

    Edit: just bent the damn thing back. Ethernet cable went in, but wouldn't lock. cosmetically not perfect, but it works fine.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018

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