*Official* Post Your Pictures Thread

spirit

Moderator
Staff member
I have a different processing app on my tablet which these images look alot better with that than they do with the one on my computer lol
What software do you use to process?

Now I shoot Jpeg on 1 card, and Raw on the other. ( The camera holds 2 cards ) I do it like that because I like to have a Jpeg I can use right away if I "Need" to. But I also have Raw for processing when I have time / want.
Not a bad idea but if you need a photo immediately that was taken in RAW you can simply export it to a JPEG in something like Lightroom without making any adjustments.

How often do you use your JPEGs?
 

NikonGuy

banned
What software do you use to process?


Not a bad idea but if you need a photo immediately that was taken in RAW you can simply export it to a JPEG in something like Lightroom without making any adjustments.

How often do you use your JPEGs?

I have Lightroom ( newest version just updated ) Photoshop CC, Corel photosuite x6, and for the tablet I currently have Snapseed, and soon will download the lightroom mobile version for the tablet.

I really need to get to work now, so I'll reply when I got home.
 

Geoff

VIP Member
I get your point. However the reason I stay in full manual is not because I think it makes me better, I just like spending time on the camera, trying different affects. It also helps me learn what shutter speed and Fstop works in what light and so on. It's all personal preference. It's like RAW vs JPEG. I used to shoot Jpeg only. Now I shoot Jpeg on 1 card, and Raw on the other. ( The camera holds 2 cards ) I do it like that because I like to have a Jpeg I can use right away if I "Need" to. But I also have Raw for processing when I have time / want.
Understandable, everyone takes photos in their own way. Many times I don't have the luxury to get the exposure right manually. It is a great way to learn more about photography though. Canon lets you convert RAW photos to JPG in-camera, so if I shoot RAW only I can select which ones to convert to JPG within the camera. Generally though, if shooting sports you need the fastest FPS possible, so writing to two cards lowers the FPS.
 

NikonGuy

banned
What software do you use to process?


Not a bad idea but if you need a photo immediately that was taken in RAW you can simply export it to a JPEG in something like Lightroom without making any adjustments.

How often do you use your JPEGs?

I use my Jpegs probably 65% of the time right now. I'm still working on changing that though.
 

G80FTW

Active Member
I shoot in aperture priority mode most of the time. Most of my photos are either landscapes or sports, in landscapes I set my aperture to either f/2.8-f/4 if I'm looking for some bokeh when taking a foreground shot with a landscape background, or f/8-f/11 for when I want to take a distant landscape shot. It makes no difference to me if Im shooting at f/8 what my shutter speed is, as long as it's twice the focal length. 1/250 or 1/2000 doesn't make any difference, so shooting in full manual just takes extra time, especially if I'm taking photos with varying sun and clouds.

In sports, depending on the lightning conditions I'll shoot either in aperture priority or full manual. Indoors where the lightning is consistent I'll shoot full manual, but outdoors say at a soccer or lacrosse game under party cloudy skies, I'll shoot Av to avoid drastically underexposed photos. On sunny or overcast days, I tend to shoot outdoor sports on full manual.

This. :good:
 

spirit

Moderator
Staff member
Some more from the Sigma 10-20 (apart from the pumpkins one which was done on the 55-300).

The weather has been weirdly warm for November - I'm talking 18C! :eek:

Click for full resolution on Flickr.



















 

voyagerfan99

Master of Turning Things Off and Back On Again
Staff member
Nice picture Jason! What was name of your camera?

He's got a D3200.

Got my new Rokinon 35mm lens the other day. Love the bokeh you can get with it! It's really a great portrait lens.

dqlma1.jpg
 

G80FTW

Active Member
Some more from the Sigma 10-20 (apart from the pumpkins one which was done on the 55-300).

The weather has been weirdly warm for November - I'm talking 18C! :eek:

Click for full resolution on Flickr.

Those look great. How much was that lens? Iv been wanting to get a new lens to play with for my D3100 and that looks like the kind of thing I would be going for.

Would that lens also be good for night photography?
 

spirit

Moderator
Staff member
Those look great. How much was that lens? Iv been wanting to get a new lens to play with for my D3100 and that looks like the kind of thing I would be going for.

Would that lens also be good for night photography?

I got mine for £230 used. The f/4.0-5.6 version is £330 new and the f/3.5 version is about £400 new I think. Not sure how much it is in the USA. Check it out on Amazon.

On a tripod this lens will be fine for night photography but for handheld night/low-light photography neither the f/4.0-5.6 or the f/3.5 versions are really suitable because the apertures are too small. It's definitely made for landscapes and architectural photography so it's not really designed to be used at night without a tripod.


Here are some others from yesterday:









Had to use ISO 800 on that because of the f/4.0 aperture and relatively low light.






You can see all of the photos I have taken with this lens in my set on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonbrown2013/sets/72157648551118965/
 
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voyagerfan99

Master of Turning Things Off and Back On Again
Staff member
I got mine for £230 used. The f/4.0-5.6 version is £330 new and the f/3.5 version is about £400 new I think. Not sure how much it is in the USA. Check it out on Amazon.

On a tripod this lens will be fine for night photography but for handheld night/low-light photography neither the f/4.0-5.6 or the f/3.5 versions are really suitable because the apertures are too small. It's definitely made for landscapes and architectural photography so it's not really designed to be used at night without a tripod.

That's why you raise the ISO ;)
 

spirit

Moderator
Staff member
Yeah, Lightroom has a great tool that works amazingly. Its called noise reduction :p You can do it very well in Photoshop too. :)

Yeah it works well and is handy. But if you do too much of it you'll end up with soft photos if you're not careful.

G80 asked if the Sigma was good at night photography. I said it'd be fine on a tripod but obviously for low-light handheld shooting it's not the most ideal and remember too that the D3100, whilst it handles noise very well, doesn't handle it as well as the higher-end models. You'll get noticeable grain at about ISO 1600 or 3200.

So whilst raising the ISO and then reducing it in post is a workaround, if you want to get a lens for handheld low-light photography then get something with a bigger aperture, eg f/2.8 or 1.8 or 1.4 so you don't have to worry about using the higher ISOs. I know they're not ultra-wide but the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 and 50mm f/1.8 are dirt cheap and would be more ideal. Otherwise the Sigma 10-20 is fine on a tripod.
 
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NikonGuy

banned
Yeah it works well and is handy. But if you do too much of it you'll end up with soft photos if you're not careful.

G80 asked if the Sigma was good at night photography. I said it'd be fine on a tripod but obviously for low-light handheld shooting it's not the most ideal and remember too that the D3100, whilst it handles noise very well, doesn't handle it as well as the higher-end models. You'll get noticeable grain at about ISO 1600 or 3200.

That's why you bump up the detail. And even clarity if you wish. Because then you can get rid of Noise, while still keeping all the detail. Many ways of working around it ;)

I'll just put it out there I had the D3100 for 2 and a half years. I know very well it's low light performance. So i'll say this @ G80. There will be no way around a tripod of a stable surface of sorts for a night shot with your camera. That is only because if you raise the ISO anything above 400, the Noise just get unacceptable. The best shot you can get with the camera is a nightscape of a city or something. The lights of buildings will help hide the noise. But astrophotography, or just street photography at night, you gotta keep it at 100 ISO. Even lightroom has a hard to removing the noise because it's so high. This is just my view. Of course if I were you ask a true professional, preferably someone with a lot of knowledge on the D3100
 
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