Suggestions for a new build.

Durango_Boy

New Member
I built my current desktop back in the Spring of 2006. Needless to say it's a tad dated and I'm beginning the process of slowly purchasing the components I need to build a new desktop.

I do not game heavily. I do work from home but nothing demanding like graphic design or video stuff. Mainly internet usage.

I'm on a budget, but since I am buying slowly, I can afford things one at a time.

I haven't picked the case yet but I like the ATX Mid size so everything suggested should hopefully be with a mid in mind.

Also, I am reusing my video card and dual monitors, and my power supply is fairly new so I may reuse it too. Input devise suggestions are not needed. My wireless router card is a dual N and it's PCI so keep that in mind too, hopefully modern MBs still use at least 1 or 2 PCI slots right?

I prefer Newegg as the vendor.

Suggestions please for:

MB
Intel Brand Processor (i5 or i7)
RAM
SSD Drives (3) Who makes the best quality for the lowest price?

I might come up with a few more things I need suggestions for.

Thanks.
 
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jonnyp11

New Member
Why 3 SSD's, or do you mean sata 3?

I's better to save and buy at once so you don't buy a mobo then a new socket comes out for the same price but it's much faster or something, although they just did that so shouldn't really be an issue, but there will be new stuff in a few months.
 

spirit

Moderator
Staff member
jonnyp11 said:
's better to save and buy at once so you don't buy a mobo then a new socket comes out for the same price but it's much faster or something
I am with Jonny on this one. Honestly it's better to wait and buy everything all at once. I made the mistake of buying things bit by biit and I ended up with a system which was running on an older CPU and socket and was fairly expensive system at the end of it (this was in December 2010).
 

Benny Boy

Active Member
Can you post the video card's and power supply's make and model # pls. We''ll want to know what we're dealing with as the ps is one of the/or the most important part.

On the SSD. Usually 60gb is plenty for os/programs as long as not a lot of big programs or games are going on it. Look for Sata III. A lot of makers use the same controller, and there are some that are different. Suggest shop by size>price>specs and then post a few your interested in.

As far as RAM, DDR3 1600 is the sweetspot for price/performance. Altho 4gb will do Windows will utilize 8gb in this type setup and G.Skill makes very good memory. 2x4gb.
 

Durango_Boy

New Member
Why 3 SSD's, or do you mean sata 3?

I's better to save and buy at once so you don't buy a mobo then a new socket comes out for the same price but it's much faster or something, although they just did that so shouldn't really be an issue, but there will be new stuff in a few months.


I'm probably on a 4 month schedule for my budget so I'm not too concerned with falling behind in that respect. I'll get the case first, then the MB and CPU, then drives, then RAM, and finally OS...or a similar order.

I like to keep a smaller drive for just the OS, my current build has a 30Gb 10K RPM WD HHD as my OS drive, and I have a pair of 250Gb 7.5K RPM WD HHDs for storage.

I'll want to copy the storage drives over to the new SSD format and stick with the (3) drive setup. It works well for me.

I'll try to dig up those part numbers of the video card, it's a 1Gb dual DVI, Nvidia I think, and I know the power supply has Sata terminals for my Sata drives.

Are there are red flag companies for the SSD drives and RAM...the ones to avoid like a field fire?
 

wolfeking

banned
Do not get them a little at a time like that. You will need at least CPU, motherboard, a video source, RAM, PSU, and the case to start with. Reason being if you can not boot it, you can not test its functionality. the RMA period is limited with DOA items.
 

Darren

Moderator
Staff member
While not advisable to drag it out I think the best order would be Case, OS, RAM, PSU, Disc Drive, Mobo, Video Card, and CPU. Last 3 should be together. The case shouldn't have issues really. OS, is either going to be scratched or fine. RAM, normally fine but if not most brands have good Warranties. Buy some that has a good warranty. PSU won't change much in price over time but it does have the likelihood of being DOA. Disc drive will work unless it's got a rare problem. Then last 3 are the worst since the prices changes the most and all can be faulty.
 

wolfeking

banned
if you get the PSU, you can test against DOA via the paperclip method. but still not advising taking months to build it. just save the money and get it all together. You might get more for your money that way as prices always fluctuate and there are some good deals on things every day.
 

Darren

Moderator
Staff member
if you get the PSU, you can test against DOA via the paperclip method. but still not advising taking months to build it. just save the money and get it all together. You might get more for your money that way as prices always fluctuate and there are some good deals on things every day.

That's exactly what I did with mine since I got my PSU a month before the rest of the system due to sales. It will test if it fires up but seeing as it does not stress test it doesn't give you a surefire answer that it operates correctly. Still better than nothing.
 

spirit

Moderator
Staff member
Usually PSUs work fine on arrival anyway, especially if you're buying from a good brand such as Corsair, so you don't really need to worry. I got my PSU early too and to test it I just plugged it into another machine I had and ran my machine of the new PSU for about 10 minutes.
 

wolfeking

banned
true. Thats how I narrowed down the failed component in my system. I had it narrowed to the PSU or the motherboard, and I was banking on it being the PSU as it would fire somewhat under an old OEM unit I have. Paperclip tested it and it fired up. RMAd the board and now its all running again. But cables are driving me insane.
 
You still never said the PSU and GPU. If you said you built your current pc, than you should know exactly what parts are on it. There are lots of cards with 1 gb and 2 Dvis, and, your PSU has sata ports? honestly? That is the stupidest part description I have heard in ages. All recent power supply's have sata power, we need to know brand, model, and wattage.
 

Darren

Moderator
Staff member
You still never said the PSU and GPU. If you said you built your current pc, than you should know exactly what parts are on it. There are lots of cards with 1 gb and 2 Dvis, and, your PSU has sata ports? honestly? That is the stupidest part description I have heard in ages. All recent power supply's have sata power, we need to know brand, model, and wattage.

If you had actually READ it you would see he says he's reusing them from his previous build and he's wanting suggestions on the parts he listed. Don't get mad at some one if you don't take the time to actually read their post.
 

Durango_Boy

New Member
You still never said the PSU and GPU. If you said you built your current pc, than you should know exactly what parts are on it. There are lots of cards with 1 gb and 2 Dvis, and, your PSU has sata ports? honestly? That is the stupidest part description I have heard in ages. All recent power supply's have sata power, we need to know brand, model, and wattage.


My current desktop has had three power supplies since I built it in 2006. That first power supply all old style connectors for the drives. I believe same for the 2nd one which did not last long. The 3rd however was an attempt of mine to work forward and possibly carry parts over. The newest one had sata connectors which is why I thought it was relevant to mention it...since it should fit in with recent and modern components.
 
Denther, Iknow what he said.But he cant stuff a i7-3970 on a 380w PSU, we need to know brand, wattage, and model. And what is the GPU?
 

MyCattMaxx

Active Member
You still never said the PSU and GPU. If you said you built your current pc, than you should know exactly what parts are on it. There are lots of cards with 1 gb and 2 Dvis, and, your PSU has sata ports? honestly? That is the stupidest part description I have heard in ages. All recent power supply's have sata power, we need to know brand, model, and wattage.
I built one of my AMD comps 6-7 years ago.
I didn't remember the model of the PS, MB and ram til I gutted the case out yesterday.
I remembered the brands but not the model #'s.
Some of us do have a life besides our computers.
 

Durango_Boy

New Member
I'll post those part numbers soon, but a quick question popped into my head...

...is there are REAL benefit of 64 bit over 24 bit when it comes to Windows 7 Professional?
 

Darren

Moderator
Staff member
I'll post those part numbers soon, but a quick question popped into my head...

...is there are REAL benefit of 64 bit over 24 bit when it comes to Windows 7 Professional?

Yes. If you want to use more than 3.5gigs of RAM then you need 64. There is no reason not to get 64 unless you're using old programs that aren't compatible.

And byteninja, he said he was reusing his video card. Once again. READ. It generally helps.
 
MY DEAR CHEESE.There is always going to be a person being mean.And I know how you will aruge on how you are not and how I am asking stupid questions, but the simple fact is you have no idea what you are talking about.We need to know gpu to make sure it is compatible with mobo, and I dont hear you saying that I was right, we do need to know psu because of watts.
 

Darren

Moderator
Staff member
MY DEAR CHEESE.There is always going to be a person being mean.And I know how you will aruge on how you are not and how I am asking stupid questions, but the simple fact is you have no idea what you are talking about.We need to know gpu to make sure it is compatible with mobo, and I dont hear you saying that I was right, we do need to know psu because of watts.

In an effort not to start a fight over something pointless. You're right, always. I'm wrong always. I am a completely ignorant person who knows nothing. I have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm a general simpleton that can't tell the difference between Molex and a watch battery. Happy?

The only reason I'm giving you grief is because you're whining about this guy being uninformed. For starters he's asking for help (this generally shows you want to learn something). Secondly, you're too lazy to even read what's being said by him and you jump to conclusions about him.

I can acknowledge I'm not being wholly friendly too you. But, please think before you post.
 
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