Please help, Got my motherboard replacement, but Im having different problems now,

johnb35 said:
Are you getting the same model of motherboard or getting a totally different model? If different model then you'll have to contact MS for a new code.

The only thing that tester won't test is when its under load. It will only show you the voltages.
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l'll be getting a different motherboard. I can't find any contact details to contact MS. Can you point me in a direction ?

Also, will I have any problems with my hard drive since it contains data connected with my previous motherboard and the OS ?

Thanks for the help John.
 
If the motherboard has a different chipset then the original you will need to do a fresh install of windows. You will be given the number to contact microsoft when activation fails.
 
johnb35 said:
If the motherboard has a different chipset then the original you will need to do a fresh install of windows. You will be given the number to contact microsoft when activation fails.
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OK great. So when reinstalling Windows, that will format the drive correct ?
And am I likely to get any trouble trying to get a new code ?
 
You will have to choose to delete existing partitions, repartition and then install windows.

As far as activation, it all depends on the person you talk to. If you tell them your scenario, they should activate it with no problems.
 
OK thank you.

I've dissasembled everything for the 2nd time now. Will be sending the motherboard back tonight along with the RAM. Ordered a Gigabyte board along with some RAM and a PSU tester.

I bloody hope this works the 3rd time!
 
I tried booting it up with the board and working RAM on a cardboard box and it was exacly the same. Single beep, everything seems good but no display

I tried using my old PSU but the 24 Pin connector just would not go in. I used quite abit of force with no luck and I was afraid of damaging the board.
 
spirit said:
This is with your new board and setup?

If so, then it's a bad PSU you've got.
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No no no, thats with my current setup haha. Sorry for the confusion.

My PSU tester is meant to arrive tommorow so I can know wether its a board or a PSU problem.
 
Ah OK, at least it's not your new setup.

Yeah test your PSU with the tester when you get it tomorrow.
 
Should I connect something to the PSU when testing like my fan controllers to give the PSU some load ?
 
No. The tester only test voltages (12, 5 and 3.3). Needs no load as voltages don't change under load.

What you need is a amp or watt meter to test the PSU. You can get 12V and still be out of spec.
 
I just read that a bad PSU will have it voltage jump up and down when under load.

From my eyes, I doubt it the PSU that's causing me problems.
The first motherboard just shut down and died. If the PSU was the problem, how could it have powered up a 2nd motherboard and I got display from time to time in the first 30mins. And now the PSU is still powering up the motherboard completely fine, it's just there is no display... :/
 
1. You can not stand on what other PSU's do. There is no completely stable way of finding out a PSU is bad. On average, amp readings are much more reliable than volt reading.

2. No. That is not right. You say your board powers up and post, yet you have no display. You are going against yourself. You can not say it post if you don't get an image.

3. A bad supply does not mean that it is completely unable to power the system. You could be getting 150 watts on the 12v Rail. Would still power a board, RAM, and CPU, but be well beyond shot.

4. Test the PSU and see. Or as suggested and you agreed before. TAKE IT TO A SHOP!
 
wolfeking said:
1. You can not stand on what other PSU's do. There is no completely stable way of finding out a PSU is bad. On average, amp readings are much more reliable than volt reading.

2. No. That is not right. You say your board powers up and post, yet you have no display. You are going against yourself. You can not say it post if you don't get an image.

3. A bad supply does not mean that it is completely unable to power the system. You could be getting 150 watts on the 12v Rail. Would still power a board, RAM, and CPU, but be well beyond shot.

4. Test the PSU and see. Or as suggested and you agreed before. TAKE IT 2TO A SHOP!
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1. For me, it makes sense that the Voltage varies when under different load, and I also heard it many times when I have been researching.

2. I'm not going against my words. I've always said the same mate, I get a short single beep, which indicates a succesfull POST according to my manual, however I get no display. I've always said that...

3.If it power's up the board, RAM and CPU, then what's stopping me from seeing video ? (I'm not using a GPU)Also, As I said, I just find it hard to be a PSU problem, as it has worked great until my first motherboard died. And worked fine when I had display.

4. I have been in touch with the only Local PC shop in my area, They told me they would charge me £30 to test my PSU, and when I asked how would they test it, all they told me was they have a specialised tester to test it. That too me is just a PSU tester. Now I'm not happy paying £30 for someone else to do exacly what I can do.
 
Yes that's a great board there. If I were buying into Z77 now I'd probably get that board. :)
 
Man, alot of post in this thread. You say when you boot your getting a single beep, then a blinking cursor for a few seconds and then it goes away?
 
StrangleHold said:
Man, alot of post in this thread. You say when you boot your getting a single beep, then a blinking cursor for a few seconds and then it goes away?
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Yeah, Single beep. The blinking cursor is barely visible. It blinks for half a second. You have to stare at the screen to see it
 
You sure when you reset the bios you put the pin back right or removed it? Plus pull your CPU 4/8 pin power connector off and make sure none of the metal connectors are pushed back into the harness. If you dont have the CPU power connector plugged in it will do exactly the same thing.

Plus do the same with your 24 pin motherboard connector, make sure none of the metal connectors are not pushed back into it to far
 
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